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CTTITURIST. 


BY 

ANDREW    S.    FULLER, 

HOB.TICULTTJKIST. 


ORANGE  JUDD  &  COMPANY,  245  BROADWAY 

AGRICULTURAL   BOOK   PUBLISHERS. 
Price,  2O  cents. 


OF  THE 


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devoted  to  small 
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iting  Small  Fruits, 
While  very  full  on 
re  been  more  care- 
•ortant  part  of  his 

Charles  Downing. 

The  chapter  on  gathering  and  packing  the  fruit  is  a  valuable  one, 
and  in  it  are  figured  all  the  baskets  and  boxes  now  in  common  use. 
The  book  is  very  finely  and  thoroughly  illustrated,  and  makes  an 
admirable  companion  to  the  Grape  Culturist,  by  the  same  author. 


CONTENTS: 


CHAP.  I. 
CHAP.  II. 
CHAP.  III. 
CHAP.  IV. 
JHAP.  V. 
CHAP.  VL 


BARBERRY. 

STRAWBERRY. 

RASPBERRY. 

BLACKBERRY. 

DWARF  CHERRY. 

CURRANT. 


CHAP.  VII.  GOOSEBERRY. 
CHAP.  VIII.  CORNELIAN  CHERRY 
CHAP.  IX.  CRANBERRY. 
CHAP.   X.  HUCKLEBERRY. 
CHAP.  XL  SHEPERDIA. 
CHAP.  XII.  PREPARATION  roh 

GATHERING  FRUIT. 


Sent  post-paid.    Price  $1  50. 
ORANGE    JTJDD    &    CO.,    245    Broadway,    New-York 


TBIOMPHE     DE     GAND, 

Drawn  exact  size,  from  the  three  premium  berries  at  the  American  AgriovlturUt 
Exhibition  June,  1862. 


THE 


ILLUSTRATED 

STRAWBERRY  CCLTBMST: 


CONTAINING   TUB 

HI8TOEY,  SEXUALITY,  FIELD  AND  GARDEN  CULTURE  OF  STRAWBERRIES, 
FORCING  OE  POT  CULTURE,  HOW  TO  GROW  FROM   SEED,  HYBRIDIZ- 
ING ;  RESULTS  OF  EXTENSIVE  EXPERIMENTS  WITH  SEEDLINGS, 

AKD  ALL   OTHER   INFORMATION   NMOE8SABY  TO   ENABLE   EVERYBODY  TO  RAISE  THEIR 
OWM   STK  A  WHERRIES  ;  TOGETHER  WITH  A  FULL  DESCRIPTION  OP  NEW 

VARIETIES  AND  A  LIST  OF  THB  BBST  OF  THK  OLD  SORTS. 
WITH  BECEIPTS  FOR 

DIFFERENT  MODES  OF  PRESERVING,  COOKING,  AND  PREPARING  STRAW- 
BERRIES FOR  THE  TABLE. 


FULLY     ILLUSTRATED     BY 

ani  Ualttable  <8wjjralrittg0 

BY  ANDREW  S.  FULLER, 

^ovttrulturist. 


Doubtless  God  could  have  made  a  better  berry,  but  doubtless  God  never  dtd.— JBAAO  WALT>H 

NEW- YORK: 
ORANGE  JUDD  &  CO.,  245  BROADWAY, 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1862,  by 
ANDREW    8.    FULLEB 

In  the  Clerk's  Cfflce  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States  for  the  Southern 
District  of  New  York. 


THE    ILLUSTRATED 


STRAWBERRY  CULTURIST. 


THE   STRAWBERRY. 

BOTANICAL   NAME. 

THE  botanical  name  of  the  strawberry  is  Fragraria  (from  the  Latin 
fragro,  to  smell  sweetly).  Its  French  name  is  Fraisier;  German,  JErrf- 
beerpflanze;  Italian,  Pianti  difragola;  Dutch,  Aadbezie;  Spanish,  Freza 
South  American  Spaniards,  Fruttfla. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  best-known  species  : 

Fragraria  vesca,  wood  strawberry,  fruit  red,  white,  and  green— native 
of  Britain. 

F.  collina,  Alpine  strawberry,  white  and  red — Alps  Mountains 
Europe. 

F.  Indica,  yellow  fruited — India. 

F.  dator,  Hautbois  or  Highwood,  pale  red — Germany. 

F.  Virginiana,  Virginian  strawberry,  red — United  States. 

F.  grandiflora,  large  flowering,  red  and  white — by  some  botanists  sai .. 
to  be  a  native  of  the  Southern  States ;  others  give  its  native  place  a-1 
South  America. 

F.  Chitiensis,  Chili  strawberry ;  by  some  it  is  called  the  same  at 
ffrandiflora,  and  by  others  as  distinct — South  America 

The  following  are  sometimes  classed  as  species,  and  by  others  oa 
sub -species  or  varieties  : 

F.  Canodensis— Canada,. 
F.  colydna — large  calyx. 

•  F.  monophylla — one-leaved. 

F.  planLinoides — plane-leaved. 
F.  Bmarensis— Buenos  Ayrea. 
F.  Ittindsensis — Illinois. 


6  THE    8TKAWBEKRY    CULTTTKIST. 

It  belongs  to  Class  12,  Icosandria  Polyandria  of  the  Linnsean  or  arti- 
ficial system  of  botany,  or  in  Rosacece  or  Rose  family  of  the  natural 
arrangement. 

Stamens,  more  than  ten  on  calyx,  surrounding  the  pistils — mostly 
low,  creeping  plants,  with  perennial  roots — many  species  and  sub- 
species found  growing  wild  in  the  temperate  and  cold  climates  of  both 
hemispheres. 

HISTORY  OP   THE    STRAWBERRY. 

How  the  name  of  Strawberry  came  to  be  applied  to  this  fruit  is  un- 
known, as  the  old  authors  do  not  agree ;  some  asserting  that  it  was 
given  it  because  children  used  to  string  them  upon  straws  to  sell,  while 
others  say  that  it  took  its  name  from  the  fact  of  straw  being  placed 
around  the  plants  in  order  to  keep  the  fruit  clean.  Its  name  may  not 
have  been  derived  from  either  of  these,  but  from  the  appearance  of 
the  plant ;  for  when  the  ground  is  covered  with  its  runners,  they  cer- 
tainly have  much  of  the  appearance  of  straw  being  spread  over  the 
ground.  We  have  found  nothing  conclusive  on  this  point. 

The  strawberry  does  not  appear  to  have  been  cultivated  by  the 
ancients,  or  even  by  the  Romans,  for  it  is  scarcely  mentioned  by  any 
of  their  writers,  and  then  not  in  connection  with  the  cultivated  fruits 
or  vegetables.  Virgil  mentions  it  only  when  warning  the  shepherds 
against  the  concealed  adder  when  seeking  flowers  and  strawberries. 

Ovid  mentions  the  Alpine  and  wood  strawberries,  and  Pliny  speaks 
of  it  as  one  of  the  few  native  fruits  of  Italy. 

From  what  we  learn  from  these  and  other  ancient  writers,  we  con- 
clude that  the  cultivation  of  the  strawbeny  belongs  wholly  to  modern 
tunes,  or  about  400  years  since.  Yet  there  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  any  highly-improved  varieties  in  cultivation  one  hundred  years 
ago,  although  the  strawberry  was  much  cultivated  in  gardens  in  the 
beginning  of  the  fifteenth  century. 

Casper  Bauhin,  in  his  "Pinax,"  published  in  1623,  mentions  but 
five  varieties.  Gerarde,  in  1597,  enumerates  but  three — the  white, 
red,  and  green  fruited. 

Parkinson,  in  1656,  describes  the  Virginian  and  Bohemian,  besides 
those  mentioned  by  Gerarde.  Quintinie,  in  his  "French  Gardener," 


THE   STRAWBERRY    CULTTJRIST.  7 

translated  by  Evelyn  in  1672,  mentions  only  four  varieties,  and  gives 
directions  for  cultivation  similar  to  that  practiced  by  some  of  the  best 
cultivators  at  the  present  time,  viz.,  planting  in  August,  removing  all 
the  runners  so  soon  as  they  appear,  and  renewing  the  beds  every  four 
years.  j 

Only  four  or  five  varieties  are  mentioned  by  any  of  the  old  writers 
on  gardening  earlier  than  about  120  years  ago.  Switzer,  in  1724,  enu- 
merates only  four  kinds ;  therefore  we  conclude  that  few,  if  any,  but 
the  wild  varieties  were  in  cultivation  at  that  time. 

The  Cappron  strawberry  (or  Fressant,  as  it  was  afterward  called), 
which  is  mentioned  by  Quintinie,  was  the  first  improved  variety.  It 
was  obtained  at  Montreuil,  in  France,  and  is  said  to  have  been  a  seed- 
ling of  the  wood  strawberry. 

The  Hautbois  was  said  by  Miller  to  have  been  carried  to  England 
from  this  country,  and  Parkinson,  in  1629,  said  that  it  had  been  with 
them  but  of  late  days,  and  that  it  was  brought  over  from  America  by 
Quester,  the  postmaster.  The  native  country  of  this  species  is  now 
supposed  to  have  been  Germany,  where  it  is  called  the  Haarbeer.  The 
old  French  gardeners  called  it  the  "  Capiton." 

The  Chili  strawberry  is  supposed  to  have  been  introduced  into  South 
America  by  the  Spaniards,  from  their  colonies  in  Mexico.  It  was 
planted  by  them  at  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera  Mountains,  near  Quito, 
and  it  was  from  here  that  M.  Frazier  obtained  it  and  carried  it  to 
Marseilles,  in  1716.  It  was  the  largest  variety  then  known. 

It  is  now  found  on  nearly  every  island  in  the  Southern  Ocean,  wher- 
ever the  Spaniards  have  made  settlements.  "That  the  Chiliensis  and 
the  grandiflvra  are  very  nearly  related,  if  not  the  same  species,  there  is 
but  little  doubt. 

Miller  introduced  the  Chili  strawberry  into  England  in  1727  ;  but  it 
proved  to  be  so  unproductive  that,  after  cultivating  it  for  nine  years, 
he  said  that  its  cultivation  would  have  to  be  abandoned  on  this 
account.  He  also  speaks  of  the  large  flowers  and  deformed  fruit  of 
this  species,  which  is  one  of  the  characteristics  of  nearly  every  variety 
that  has  been  grown  in  Europe  or  America  from  the  Chili  species. 

The  Fragrcria  Chiliensis  and  F.  grandift&ra  appear  to  be  varieties  or 
species  from  which  the  varieties  mostly  cultivated  in  Europe  have 


O       •  THE   STRAWBERRY   CTJLTURI8T. 

been  grown.  The  varieties  raised  there  are  generally  larger,  not  ai 
productive,  sweet,  but  not  rich,  having  less  of  that  aromatic  flavor  so 
much  admired  by  Americans.  These  varieties  do  not  flourish  as  well 
in  our  climate  as  those  grown  from  the  F,  Virginiana.  Seldom  do  we 
get  a  large  variety  from  Europe  that  succeeds  well  in  this  country, 
simply  because  they  are  grown  from  the  more  tender  species. 

But  little  improvement  was  made  in  the  strawberry  until  the  Euro- 
pean cultivators  commenced  raising  seedlings  from  the  American  spe- 
cies, which  were  found  susceptible  of  great  improvement,  without  any 
special  effort  or  the  application  of  any  great  scientific  skill  in  their 
culture. 

About  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  practical  experiments 
began  in  England  by  cross-breeding  and  hybridizing  species  and  varie- 
ties, and  the  results  were  soon  apparent  from  the  increased  number  of 
large  and  fine  varieties.  Those  that  attracted  the  most  attention  at 
that  time  were  the  Roseberry,  raised  by  E.  Davidson,  in  1 810  ;  Down-' 
ton,  by  T.  A.  Knight,  in  1816  ;  Grove  End  Scarlet,  by  Atkinson,  1820 ; 
Keen's  Seedling,  1823  5  Elton,  by  Knight,  1828.  Then  Myatt  fol- 
lowed with  his  Pine,  Prince  Albert,  Eliza,  British  Queen,  etc.  A  host 
of  other  growers  were  at  work  producing  other  fine  varieties  in  in- 
numerable numbers. 

The  French,  Belgian,  and  other  continental  strawberry  growers  were 
also  in  the  field,  and  the  results  are  that  the  strawberry  has  become 
one  of  the  great  fruits  of  Europe. 

Here  we  did  not  commence  quite  so  soon,  or  go  to  work  so  earnestly 
as  did  our  transatlantic  friends ;  yet  many  fine  varieties  (or  those  con- 
sidered so)  were  produced  twenty  years  ago. 

The  production  of  Hovey's  Seedling,  in  1834,  gave  a  new  impetus  to 
the  production  of  new  varieties,  and  it  has  been  kept  up  with  such 
vigor  that,  probably,  at  the  present  time,  we  possess  as  many  and  as 
fine  varieties  produced  in  this  country  as  can  be  found  in  any  other. 

THE   SEXUAMTY  OF   STRAWBERRIES. 

We  find,  on  examining  the  blossoms  of  strawberries  in  cultivation, 
that  while  in  some  are  found  both  stamens  and  pistils  others  have 
only  stamens,  and  others  still  only  pistils.  The  first,  represented  by 


THE   8TEAWBERKY    CULTURI8T.  V 

Figure  1,  are  called  perfect,  natural,  bisexual,  or  hermaphrodite  varie- 
ties. Figure  2  shows  the  staminate  or  male  blossom,  and  Figure  3  the 
pistillate  or  female.  A  plant  of  the  first  kind  will  bear  fruit  without 
reference  to  any  other  ;  the  pistillates  are  only  productive  when  plant- 
ed near  a  perfect  or  a  staminate  variety,  by  which  it  is  fertilized ;  and 
a  staminate  is,  under  all  circumstances,  barren. 


Fig.  1.  Fig.  2.  Pig.  3. 

The  war  of  words  that  has  raged  relative  to  the  sexuality  of  the 
strawberry,  ever  since  the  days  of  Keen,  who  reported  his  observations 
to  the  London  Horticultural  Society  in  1809,  has  been  both  instructive 
and  amusing.  The  tenacity  with  which  certain  parties  hold  to  the 
theory  that  pistillates  are  and  ever  will  be  the  most  productive,  would 
certainly  be  worthy  of  admiration  if  exhibited  in  a  better  cause. 
Claiming,  as  they  do,  that  the  strawberry  has  been  placed  in  the 
wrong  class  by  botanists,  and  that  the  discovery  of  the  fact  that  there 
exist  certain  varieties  which  possess  only  one  sex  of  the  organs  of 
reproduction  instead  of  two,  was  the  stepping-stone  upon  which  the 
cultivator  could,  if  he  would,  reach  a  higher  grade  in  the  scale  of  pro- 
gression than  it  was  possible  for  him  to  do  in  the  absence  of  this  won- 
derful discovery.  They  have  kept  alive  this  contest  for  half  a  cen- 
tury ;  and  still,  every  season,  when  the  strawberry  breaks  forth  into 
bloom,  it  recommences. 

For  my  own  part,  I  do  not  expect  to  see  this  question  settled  by  dis- 
cussion ;  it  rests  with  cultivators  to  say  whether  they  will  encourage 
the  introduction  of  varieties  that  necessitate  the  cultivation  of  two  for 
the  sake  of  getting  a  good  crop  from  one,  and  at  the  same  time  be 
subjected  to  the  labor  and  extreme  difficulty  of  keeping  the  varieties 
separate  when  planted  in  the  close  proximity  always  necessary  to  in 
Bure  perfect  fertilization. 


10  THE   STKAWBERKY    CULTUKIST. 

Before  leaving  this  sexual  question,  I  will  state  a  few  facts  derived 
from  study  and  experience. 

All  the  botanists  that  have  ever  classified  plants  according  to.  the 
Linnsean  or  artificial  arrangement  have  uniformly  placed  the  straw- 
berry in  Icosandria,  which  class  is  founded  upon  the  circumstance  of 
the  number  and  position  of  the  stamens  being  more  than  ten,  and  situ- 
ated on  the  calyx.  Therefore  it  is  evident  that  all  of  the  old  botanists 
found  the  different  species  of  the  strawberry  uniformly  of  this  charac- 
ter. Had  it  not  been  so,  they  would  certainly  have  mentioned  the 
fact,  or  have  placed  it  in  another  class ;  but  none  of  them  ever  dis- 
covered a  strawberry  in  its  normal  condition  varying  sufficiently  to 
warrant  them  in  changing  it  from  the  position  where  it  was  first 
placed  in  botany. 

Since  the  natural  arrangement  of  botany  has  come  into  use,  no 
botanist  has  attempted  or  dared  to  question  its  right  to  the  position  it 
held  in  Icosandria  of  the  artificial  or  Rosacece  of  the  natural  arrange- 
ment. If,  as  has  been  claimed,  the  strawberry  in  its  wild  state  uni- 
formly produced  flowers  containing  only  pistils,  and  others  with  only 
stamens,  then,  under  the  Linnaean  system,  it  would  have  been  placed 
in  Dicecia,  or  Class  20. 

Now  the  question  arises,  whether  we  shall  declare  that  all  botanists 
whose  reputation  for  scientific  attainments  is  unblemished  were  wrong, 
and  that  a  few  would-be  botanists  are  right,  or  vice  versa  ?  Or  shall  we, 
laying  all  prejudice  aside,  acknowledge  that  the  scientific  botanist  is 
right,  and  that  these  changes  which  have  been  observed  are  the  effects 
of  cultivation  and  hybridization,  or  were  caused  by  changes  in  the 
vegetable  kingdom,  the  result  of  the  gradual  change  of  the  face  of  the 
country,  consequent  upon  the  march  of  civilization,  which  does  often 
in  a  manner  affect  even  the  indigenous  plants  of  the  country  ?  Thus, 
the  wild  strawberry  of  North  America  is  found  to  produce  varieties 
having  no  stamens,  and  occasionally  they  are  found  growing  wild; 
but  whether  these  wild  plants  are  offsprings  from  cultivated  pistillates 
it  is  impossible  to  determine,  but  it  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  they 
are,  as  pistillates  were  not  discovered  wild  until  cultivated  pistillates 
were  common. 

To  show  that  the  pistillate  is  not  the  normal  condition  of  the  straw- 


THE   STEAWBEEEY   CTJLTUEIST.  11 

berry,  we  have  but  to  sow  their  seeds  and  watch  the  result.  From 
two  hundred  seeds  gathered  from  a  pistillate  variety  I  produced  but 
one  pistillate  ;  all  the  others  were  perfect  or  bisexual. 

In  another  experiment  I  produced  sixty  pistillates  and  one  staminate 
in  one  thousand  plants  ;  all  the  rest  were  perfect.  But,  it  may  be 
asked,  how  came  the  staminate  or  male  variety?  In  reply,  I  would 
itate  that  there  is  no  reason  why  any  species  of  plant  that  will  change 
from  a  bisexual  to  a  pistillate  may  not  change  to  a  staminate  or  bar- 
ren plant.  So  that  this  question  resolves  itself  into  this,  that  any 
other  form  of  flower  than  that  named  by  the  scientific  botanist  is  un- 
natural. The  cause  of  this  change  may  or  may  not  be  known. 

By  cultivation,  man  has  produced  a  double  flower  on  the  rose,  peach, 
cherry,  apple,  plum,  etc.,  from  the  single  flower  of  nature. 

By  cultivation,  or  other  artificial  causes,  we  have  produced  from  the 
wild  strawberry,  with  its  stamens  and  pistils  both  perfect  in  one 
flower  (see  Figure  4),  those  that  possess  no  pistils  (see  Figure  2). 
Then,  again,  we  have  those  in  which  the  stamens  are  undeveloped  while 


Fig.  4.  JFig.  5. 

the  pistils  are  perfect  (see  Figure  5).  In  others,  one  flower  on  the 
plant  will  have  no  stamens,  while  another  flower  will  have  both  per- 
fect. Many  other  variations  occur,  produced  by  cultivation,  soils,  and 
situation  under  which  the  plants  are  placed,  such  as  a  part  or  all  oi 


THE  STRAWBERRY   CTTLTURI8T. 

the  flowers  producing  no  fruit,  or  going  blind,  as  it  is  called  by  culti- 
vators. This  often  occurs  when  plants  are  forced  under  glass. 

Naturally  the  strawberry  flower  has 
five  petals  (see  Figure  4) ;  but  in  cul- 
tivated varieties  we  often  see  more, 
seven  being  a  number  often  seen  in 
the  larger  varieties.  Figure  6  rep- 
resents a  flower  of  Due  de  Malakoff 
with  seven  petals. 

These  are  only  a  few  of  the  many 
changes  which  are  constantly  occur- 
ring, and  they  admonish  us  to  be 
careful  how  we  jump  at  a  conclusion 
without  careful  investigation. 

As  to  the  assertion  of  some  culti- 
Flg<  6t  vators,  that  pistillate  varieties,  when 

properly  fertilized,  are  more  productive  than  the  bisexual  varieties,  it 
is  only  necessary  to  state  that  the  most  productive  varieties  now  known 
are  of  the  latter  class,  of  which  Wilson's  Albany,  Downer,  Bonte  de  St. 
Julien,  etc.,  are  well-known  specimens. 

CUI/TURE,  ETC. — SOILS. 

Any  moderately  rich,  deep  loam  will,  in  this  latitude,  produce  a 
good  crop  of  strawberries ;  but  it  is  equally  true  that  some  soils  and 
situations  are  better  adapted  to  particular  varieties  than  others.  For 
instance,  the  Scotch  Runner  and  Early  Scarlet  will  thrive  upon  a  dry 
sandy  soil,  where  it  is  almost  impossible  to  keep  some  of  our  new  im- 
proved kmds  alive. 

As  a  class  the  strawberry  requires  a  deep  moist  soil,  one  that  is  open 
and  porous,  not  heavy,  or  having  clay  predominant.  The  strawberry 
requires  an  abundance  of  moisture,  and  whatever  the  other  conditions 
are,  let  the  supply  of  this  be  regular  and  there  will  be  but  little  diffi- 
culty in  obtaining  a  bountiful  crop.  How  this  moisture  can  be  the 
most  readily  supplied  must  be  decided  by  the  cultivator.  If  the  soil 
is  naturally  heavy,  then  it  should  be  underdrained  and  subsoiled  ;  if 
it  is  gravelly  or  sandy,  then  fibrous  muck  or  some  similar  material 


THE   STKAWBERKY   CULTURIST.  13 

must  be  added,  so  that  it  shall  be  capable  of  retaining  moisture. 
Deep  plowing,  thoroughly  pulverizing  the  soil,  with  a  liberal  supply 
of  mulching,  is  usually  all  that  will  be  needed  to  insure  a  constant 
supply  of  moisture. 

MANURE. 

That  all  plants  require  food  is  evident,  and  if  the  soil  does  not  con- 
tain it  in  sufficient  quantities  it  must  be  supplied.  Of  this,  and  how 
much  manure,  if  any,  is  required,  every  cultivator  must  be  his  own 
judge,  remembering  that  the  strawberry  requires  a  good  rich  soil,  but 
not  so  rich  as  is  necessary  to  grow  many  other  crops. 

Caution  against  putting  on  too  much  manure  I  think  is  needless,  for 
very  few  will  be  guilty  of  such  an  act. 

KIND  OF  MANURE. 

There  is  but  little  ch.oice  in  the  kinds  of  manure  which  are  obtain- 
able on  the  farm,  provided  it  is  well  decomposed  or  composted.  Muck, 
leaves,  ashes,  old  sods,  etc.,  are  all  good  when  applied  separately,  or 
when  composted  with  barn-yard  manure.  All  fresh  manures,  such  as 
that  of  the  horse,  sheep,  hens,  etc.,  should  be  avoided  if  possible,  as 
they  have  a  tendency  to  produce  a  great  amount  of  foliage,  but  little 
fruit.  They  may,  however,  be  used  when  old  with  good  effect.  Gu- 
ano may  be  applied  as  a  stimulant,  but  not  relied  upon  as  a  general 
manure. 

In  some  parts  of  the  country  the  soil  is  rich  enough,  and  no  manure 
is  needed  ;  but  around  New  York,  where  the  soil  has  been  a  long  time 
in  cultivation,  there  are  few  fields  that  will  not  need  at  least  a  good 
top-dressing  of  some  kind  of  manure  before  planting.  The  ground 
should  be  made  as  smooth  and  level  as  possible,  and  all  coarse  lumpa 
should  be  made  fine  or  entirely  removed. 

TIME  TO  PLANT.    '. 

Although  the  strawberry  may  be  planted  with  safety  at  any  time 
from  early  spring  until  fall,  yet  there  seems  to  be  two  seasons  of  the 
year  in  which  it  may  be  done  more  successfully  than  any  other, 
namely,  April  and  May  in  spring,  September  and  October  in  the 
autumn.  Augufit  is  sometimes  chosen,  but  it  is  usually  a  dry 
month,  and  the  heat  being  so  great,  the  plants  are  move  liable  to 


14r  THE   STBAWBERKY   CULTUBIST. 

die  or  be  very  much  injured.  Besides,  the  young  plants  are  not-  00 
well  rooted  as  they  are  when  allowed  to  remain  until  September.  I 
have  always  had  better  success  by  transplanting  in  September  than 
earlier  in  the  season,  unless  it  be  in  the  spring. 


Fig.  7. 

There  is  but  little  choice  between  April  and  September,  except  it  be 
that  plants  carefully  planted  in  autumn  will  give  a  fair  crop  the  next 
season,  while  those  planted  in  spring  will  bear  scarcely  any  fruit  until 
the  following  year.  Some  cultivators  make  a  practice  of  planting  in 
September  and  taking  a  crop  from  the  plants  the  following  season, 
and  then  plow  the  plants  under  and  plant  again.  To  have  this  plan 
work  successfully,  it  is  only  necessary  to  have  the  ground  very  rich,  so 
that  the  plants  will  become  very  strong  by  the  time  they  come  into 
fruit. 


THE   STKAWBERKY   CULTURIST.  15 


PREPARATION  OP  PLANTS. 


When  transplanted  in  the  spring,  the  half-dead  leaves  should  bo 
pulled  off  and  the  roots  shortened  one  third  or  one  half  their  length. 


Fig.  8. 

Figure  7  shows  the  position  of  the  roots  when  taken  from  the  ground — 
A,  being  the  runner  connecting  it  with  the  parent  plant ;  B,  a  new 
runner,  on  which  another  plant  will  be  formed  ;  C — D,  the  cross  line, 
showing  the  point  at  which  the  roots  should  be  cut.  This  short- 
ening induces  them  to  throw  out  a  new  set  of  fibrous  roots  from 
the  ends  cut  off,  which  they  would  not  do  otherwise.  It  also  causes 
other  roots  to  push  from  near  the  crown  of  the  plant,  as  seen  in 
Figure  8.  The  shortening  of  the  roots  is  beneficial  to  plants  that  are 


16  THE   STRAWBERRY   CULTURISl. 

set  out  in  the  spiing,  no  matter  whether  they  have  been  a  long  time 
out  of  the  ground,  or  have  been  taken  up  but  recently,  as  the  roots 
have  become  ripened  during  the  winter,  and  the  ends  are  always 
broken  off  in  taking  up,  and  it  is  necessary  that  they  should  be  cut 
off  smooth  and  clean  before  planting  again.  Not  so  with  plants  in  the 
fall ;  for  the  roots  of  the  strawberry  continue  to  grow  from  the  ex- 
treme end  until  cold  weather  sets  in,  and  when  carefully  taken  up 
before  this,  the  ends  are  not  broken,  and  if  soon  planted  again  they 
immediately  grow. 

CHOICE   OF  PLANTS. 

Young  runners  that  are  well  rooted  are  always  the  best,  and  old  plants 
should  never  be  used  if  it  can  be  avoided.  When  a  variety  is  very 
scarce  and  valuable,  the  old  plants  may  be  taken  up  and  pulled  to 
pieces,  roots  and  tops  trimmed,  and  then  planted. 

PI.  ANTING. 

Choose  cloudy  weather  for  planting,  if  possible.  Draw  a  line  where 
you  are  to  put  the  row  of  plants,  keeping  it  a  few  inches  above  the 
ground,  so  that  you  may  plant  under  the  line ;  this  is  much  better 
than  to  let  the  line  lie  on  the  ground,  for  then  it  will  be  in  the  way 
of  the  transplanting  trowel ;  spread  out  the  roots  evenly  and  on  every 
side  ;  cover  them  as  deeply  as  you  can  without  covering  the  crown  of 
the  plants  ;  press  the  soil  down  firmly  around  them  with  the  hands. 

If  the  weather  should  prove  dry,  give  them  a  good  soaking  with 
pure  water  (no  mere  sprinkling  will  do)  as  often  as  they  require  it, 
which  will  be  as  often  as  the  foliage  droops.  The  rows  should  be  two 
and  a  half  feet  apart,  and  the  plants  one  foot  apart  in  the  rows. 
When  pistillate  varieties  are  used  for  the  main  crop,  then  every  fifth 
row  must  be  planted  with  a  hermaphrodite  variety,  for  the  purpose  of 
fertilizing  the  pistillates.  Pistillate  varieties  will  not  bear  alone,  nor 
will  they  bear  a  full  crop  or  perfect  berries  unless  an  abundant  supply 
of  perfect  flowering  varieties,  is  placed  in  close  proximity.  Let  no 
weeds  grow  among  them,  and  stir  the  surface  of  the  soil  as  often  as 
possible  ;  the  oftener  the  better.  We  know  that  some  cultivators  as- 
sert that  there  is  much  injury  done  to  the  roots  by  frequent  hoeing  ; 


THE   STRAWBERRY   CULTURIST.  17 

but  we  have  never  found  the  plants  as  much  injured  by  hoeing  or 
forking  among  them  as  they  were  by  neglecting  to  do  either , 

Take  off  all  runners  as  they  appear,  so  that  all  the  strength  of  the 
plant  shall  be  concentrated,  and  not  distributed  among  several,  as  a 
dozen  small  plants  will  not  produce  so  much  or  so  fine  fruit  as  one 
good  strong  one.  When  plants  are  wanted,  make  a  separate  planta- 
tion for  that  purpose. 

At  the  approach  of  winter,  the  entire  surface  of  the  soil,  plants  and 
all,  should  be  covered  with  straw,  hay,  or  some  similar  material,  to 
the  depth  of  one  inch  ;  the  object  being  not  so  much  for  the  purpose 
of  keeping  out  the  frost  as  to  prevent  the  frequent  freezing  and  thaw- 
ing during  the  early  part  of  winter  and  the  approach  of  spring.  So 
soon  as  the  plants  start  in  the  spring,  the  covering  should  be 
pushed  aside,  so  as  to  allow  the  plant  to  grow  up  through  it.  The 
question  is  often  asked,  whether  it  is  necessary  to  cover  the  hardy  va- 
rieties in  this  locality  during  whiter  ?  and  if  we  should  judge  from  the 
difference  in  the  appearance  of  the  plants  in  the  spring,  we  might 
doubt  the  expediency  of  such  a  practice  ;  but  I  have  found  it  highly 
beneficial  to  cover  all  varieties,  having  tried  several  experiments  the 
results  of  which  were  that  on  an  average  we  obtained  about  one  quar- 
ter more  fruit  when  the  plants  were  covered  than  when  they  were  not. 

The  embryo  fruit  buds  are  formed  in  the  fall,  and  are  often  injured 
during  the  winter  and  spring,  and  of  course  if  there  are  but  a  few  fruit 
stems  put  forth,  there  is  but  little  call  on  the  plant  to  support  them, 
and  consequently  the  leaves  have  more  food. 

Usually  the  plants  grow  strong  or  weak  in  proportion  to  the  quan« 
tity  of  fruit  they  bear.  This  would  often  lead  cultivators  to  suppose, 
from  the  luxuriant  growth  of  the  plants,  that  covering  was  of  no  bene- 
fit, if  not  positively  injurious. 

Keep  off  all  runners  at  all  times,  and  pull  up  all  weeds  that  come 
up  through  the  mulching.  No  stirring  of  the  soil  is  needed  if  a  good 
depth  of  mulch  is  sustained.  It  will  generally  be  necessary  to  add  a 
small  quantity  of  mulch  every  fall,  depending,  of  course,  upon  the  na- 
ture of  the  material  used.  Salt  hay  is  a  material  that  is  much  used 
near  New  York,  and  it  is  cheap,  lasting,  and  easily  applied  ;  but  straw, 
hay,  carpenters'  shavings,  leaves,  tan-bark,  etc.,  are  all  good.  Straw- 


18  THE   8TKAWBEEBY   CTJLTURIST. 

berry  plantations  that  axe  kept  well  mulched,  and  freed  from  weeds 
and  runners,  will  last  for  many  years,  depending,  of  course,  somewhat, 
upon  the  variety  planted  and  the  nature  of  the  soil. 

On  very  dry  or  sandy  soil  it  is  well  to  mulch  the  ground  very  soon 
after  the  plants  are  set  out,  or  so  soon  as  they  take  root  in  the  soil,  as 
there  is  but  little  danger  of  being  troubled  with  weeds  the  first  season, 
and  the  mulch  keeps  the  earth  moist,  a  thing  which  it  is  very  difficult 
to  accomplish  in  any  other  way. 

GARDEX  CULTURE. 

The  same  direction  given  for  field  culture  of  the  strawberry  is  appli- 
cable to  the  small  garden,  with  the  exception  of  the  arrangement  of 
the  beds  ;  these  should  be  four  feet  wide,  planting  three  rows  in  each, 
placing  the  plants  eighteen  inches  apart  each  way  ;  this  will  leave  six 
inches  margin  between  the  outside  row  and  the  walk,  which  should 
be  two  feet ;  this  gives  three  feet  between  the  plants  of  parallel  beds. 
This  is  none  too  much  space  between  beds  for  standing  room  to  gather 
the  fruit ;  and  if  different  varieties  are  grown  in  beds  side  by  side,  a 
less  space  than  three  feet  would  increase  the  danger  of  the  plants  run- 
ning from  one  bed  to  the  other.  Although  no  runners  should  be 
allowed  to  grow,  all  of  us  will  sometimes  become  careless  and  neglect 
to  keep  them  off ;  and  mixing  the  plants  should  be  guarded  against, 
if  anything  like  good  culture  is  attempted. 

When  pistillate  varieties  are  grown,  they  should  be  plar  ted  in  alter- 
nate beds  with  other  sorts,  but  never  plant  both  kinds  together  hi  the 
same  bed.  Mulching  the  beds  must  be  attended  to  the  same  as  in 
field  culture  ;  and  when  it  is  convenient,  it  is  well  to  remove  the  mulch 
after  the  plants  are  done  fruiting,  and  fork  up  or  hoe  deeply  the 
ground  between  the  plants,  and  then  mulch  again. 

All  the  different  operations  by  which  the  fruit  may  be  enlarged  or 
the  quantity  increased,  such  as  watering  with  pure  water,  or  with 
liquid  manure,  guano,  sal  soda,  etc.,  will  suggest  themselves  to  the 
observing  cultivator. 

When  a  strawberry  bed  begins  to  fail,  it  is  best  to  plant  new  beds  on 
new  soils  ;  and  when  the  )ld  beds  are  destroyed,  the  ground  on  which 
they  were  should  be  planted  with  some  other  crop,  and  not  again 
planted  with  strawberries  for  two  or  three  years. 


THE    STKAWBEKKY    CULTUKIST.  19 

TO  PRODUCE  LARGE  FRUIT. 

To  grow  a  few  large  berries,  it  is  only  necessary  to  select,  so  soon  as 
you  can  after  the  fruit  sets,  three  or  four  of  the  most  promising  beriies, 
and  pick  off  all  the  rest,  and  then  not  let  the  plant  want  for  moisture 
or  food  until  it  is  ripe.  To  grow  large  fruit  of  the  Alpine  strawberry, 
it  is  best  to  raise  new  plants  from  seed  every  season,  letting  them  fruit 
but  one  season,  and  then  replace  them  with  new  plants.  This  class  of 
strawberry  reproduces  itself  from  seed  without  any  considerable 
variation. 

TO   PRODUCE    JVEW   VARIETIES. 

In  attempting  to  produce  a  new  variety  of  strawberries  from  seed, 
it  should  first  be  decided  what  are  the  qualities  desired,  and  then,  by 
selecting  two  varieties  that  possess  these  qualities  as  near  as  may  be, 
and  by  fertilizing  one  with  the  other,  we  can  come  nearer  to  the  object 
in  view  than  we  should  by  sowing  seed  collected  indiscriminately  from 
varieties  not  properly  fertilized. 

For  instance,  let  us  take  the  Wilson,  which  is  very  prolific,  quite 
large,  and  firm,  but  is  rather  acid,  and  too  dark  a  color,  with  a  calyx 
that  does  not  part  readily  from  the  berry,  and  the  Peabody,  which  is 
not  prolific,  though  large,  and  is  of  superior  color,  and  sweet,  and  has 
a  calyx  that  paiis  readily. 

Now  let  us  place  these  two  varieties  at  some  distance  from  others, 
but  in  close  proximity  to  each  other,  so  that  they  can  be  the  more 
readily  operated  upon.  When  they  come  into  bloom,  remove  the 
stamens  from  as  many  flowers  as  desired,  and  then  with  a  fine  camel's- 
hair  pencil  take  the  pollen  from  the  other  variety,  and  dust  it  over 
the  pistils  of  the  flower  from  which  the  stamens  have  been  removed. 
It  is  well  to  place  a  fine  netting  over  the  plant  operated  upon,  to  pre- 
vent insects  from  fertilizing  it  with  pollen  from  inferior  varieties. 

The  flowers  should  have  the  pollen  applied  several  times,  a  few 
hours  between  each  application,  so  that  the  fertilization  shall  be  com- 
plete. It  is  well  to  use  both  varieties  as  parents,  and  fertilize  the 
Wilson  with  the  Peabody,  and  vice  versa,  as  it  can  not  be  determined 
which  will  produce  the  best  until  proved  by  actual  experiment.  I  do 
not  mention  the  Wilson  and  Peabody  believing  them  to  be  the  best  to 


20  THE   STKAWBEEKY   CULTUEI8T. 

raist,  leedlings  from,  but  only  to  illustrate  the  principle.  From  my 
own  uxperiments  with  them  I  have  been  somewhat  disappointed,  for 
nine  tenths  of  the  seedlings  from  the  Wilson  fertilized  by  the  Peabody 
were  more  acid  than  the  parent,  although  I  succeeded  in  getting  the 
color  and  some  of  the  other  characteristics  of  the  Peabody.  But  using 
the  Peabody  as  the  parent,  I  have  had  better  success,  getting  a  better 
colored  berry,  sweeter,  and  some  plants  that  were  quite  prolific,  witq 
almost  invariably  the  long  neck,  which  is  a  peculiar  characteristic  of 
the  Peabody. 

Any  two  varieties  of  the  same  species,  or  two  distinct  species  (unless 
too  far  removed,  like  the  Alpine,  which,  I  believe,  will  not  hybridize 
with  any  of  the  others),  may  be  brought  together,  and  valuable  vari- 
eties grown  from  the  mixture. 

But  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  varieties  now  in  cultivation 
have  been  so  mixed  and  cross-fertilized,  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
get  a  true  cross  between  any  two  of  them. 

The  effect  of  fertilization  of  previous  generations  will  sometimes 
show  itself  when  and  where  least  expected.  Sometimes  the  best  results 
will  be  obtained  by  merely  sowing  seeds  of  any  good  variety,  trusting 
to  its  inherent  good  qualities  being  transmitted  to  the  offspring. 

From  the  Austin  I  have  got  seedlings,  all  of  which  resembled  the 
parent,  but  were  inferior ;  and  I  have  noticed  that  all  of  this  class, 
such  as  the  Downer,  Iowa,  Charlton,  Georgia  Mammoth,  etc.,  are  very 
likely  to  produce  varieties  no  better  than  the  wild  Western  berry 
from  which  they  evidently  all  originated.  It  is  very  easy  to  get  a 
large  variety  from  this  class,  but  seldom  a  good  one.  From  the  Bic- 
ton  Pine  I  have  grown  large,  sweet,  orange-colored  fruit,  but,  like  the 
parent,  unproductive. 

From  the  Oscar,  which  is  a  poor  grower,  I  have  produced  fine 
growers,  and  those  that  were  moderately  prolific ;  but  the  fruit  was 
sweet  and  dry. 

The  results  of  some  of  my  experiments  are  exceedingly  curious, 
such  as  producing  five  distinct  varieties  from  the  Bartlett,  all  of  which 
had  entire  leaves,  not  lobed.  They  were  very  similar  to  those  de- 
scribed by  Duchesne  as  raised  by  him  at  Versailles  in  1761,  and  called 
the  Monophylla,  it  being  just  100  years  (so  far  as  I  have  been  able  to 


THE   SfRAWBERBY   CULTTTKIST.  21 

learn)  since  the  first  one-leaved  strawberry  was  grown  until  the  second 
was  fruited  by  me  in  1861.  But  neither  were  of  any  value,  except  as 
a  botanical  curiosity. 

From  the  Iowa  I  produced  a  five  leaved  variety,  and  one  with  leaves 
having  a  beautiful  silver  stripe,  but  of  no  value  to  the  cultivator. 

HOW    TO   RAISE    SEEDLINGS. 

To  obtain  strawberry  seed  for  planting,  the  berries  may  be  dried 
perfectly,  after  which  the  pulp,  by  a  little  rubbing,  will  be  reduced  to 
a  fine  powder,  throughout  which  the  seeds  will  be  distributed  ;  or  the 
seeds  may  be  washed  free  from  the  flesh  very  readily  by  mashing  the 
berry  in  water,  when  the  seeds  will  fall  to  the  bottom,  and  the  re- 
mainder can  be  poured  off.  But  the  plan  we  prefer  is  as  follows  : 

When  the  berries  from  which  you  wish  to  grow  seedlings  are  ripe, 
they  should  be  mashed  and  mixed  with  dry  sand,  so  thoroughly  that 
no  two  seeds  shall  remain  together,  using  sufficient  sand  to  absorb  all 
the  moisture.  Then  sow  the  sand  containing  the  seeds  in  a  bed  pre- 
viously prepared  in  some  half  shady  place,  or  under  glass  ;  sift  on 
some  fine  mold,  covering  the  seeds  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  deep. 
If  the  soil  is  kept  moist,  the  plants  will  begin  to  appear  in  about  four 
weeks,  and  will  continue  to  come  up  until  cold  weather,  at  which  time 
they  should  be  covered  lightly  with  straw,  say  one  inch  deep.  The 
following  spring  the  plants  should  be  set  in  rows,  at  least  two  feet 
apart,  and  18  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

Stop  all  runners  every  week  throughout  the  season,  and  keep  the 
beds  clean.  The  second  year  after  transplanting,  you  will  have  fruit. 
Mark  sexes  of  each  as  they  conne  into  blossom.  As  the  fruit  ripens, 
mark  the  time  and  character,  select  the  very  best,  and  destroy  all 
other  plants.  Lift  carefully  those  that  are  to  be  preserved,  and  put 
them  into  new  beds  where  they  will  have  more  room  to  make  runners. 
The  correct  estimate  of  the  value  of  any  new  variety  can  not  be  ascer- 
tained until  it  has  fruited  two  or  three  years.  For  my  own  part,  1 
shall  never  again  save  a  pistillate,  although  I  have  done  so  heretofore 
extensively,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  by  actual  experiment 
whether  they  were  any  more  likely  to  be  better  or  more  productive 
than  the  bisexual  or  perfect  varieties. 


22  THE   STEAWBERKY    OHLTTJEIST. 

The  results  of  some  of  the  largest  experiments  which  I  have  tried 
are,  that  out  of  several  hundred  seedlings  of  1856  none  were  good, 
although  sown  from  the  best  seed  that  I  could  obtain.  In  1859  I  raised 
another  large  qi  -antity.  Being  more  careful  in  selecting  the  varieties 
and  in  their  fertilization,  the  result  was  a  thousand  different  varieties. 
There  were  sixty  pistillates,  one  staminate  which  produced  no  fruit, 
and  the  remainder  bisexual  or  hermaphrodite. 

Out  of  this  number  I  have  three  varieties  that  have  fruited  three 
years,  which  are  worthy  of  being  cultivated.  From  two  hundred  seed- 
lings of  1860,  fruited  two  years,  I  shall  keep  two  for  further  trial. 

To  those  who  may  think  this  a  tedious  undertaking,  I  would  say 
that  no  one  should  endeavor  to  produce  new  and  improved  varieties 
of  fruits  and  flowers  if  it  is  to  be  looked  upon  as  labor.  It  should  be 
only  a  pleasant  pastime. 

POT  CULTURE. 

"WTien  strawberries  are  to  be  cultivated  in  pots,  the  soil  should  be 
made  much  richer  and  more  friable  than  when  cultivated  in  the  open 
ground.  A  good  compost  for  the  purpose  is  made  by  taking  sods  from 
an  old  pasture,  putting  them  in  a  heap,  and  turning  them  occasionally 
until  they  are  thoroughly  rotted ;  then  take  three  parts  of  this  and  one 
part  of  good  stable  manure  (or  cow  manure,  which  is  better)  which 
is  at  least  one  year  old,  and  well  rotted ;  add  a  small  quantity  of  coarse 
sand ;  mix  these  well  together  and  sift  through  a  coarse  sieve  before 
using.  Other  materials  of  like  nature,  such  as  peat,  leaf  mold, 
etc.,  may  be  used  instead  of  sods.  Prepare  compost  the  season  before 
it  is  wanted  for  use,  and  so  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  throw  out  run- 
ners, fill  small  pots,  say  two  or  three  inches  in  diameter,  with  the  com- 
post, and  set  them  in  the  ground  near  the  plants  from  which  you  wish  to 
take  those  for  pot  culture,  with  the  top  of  the  pot  just  level  with  the 
surface.  So  soon  as  the  young  runner  shows  signs  of  producing  roots, 
place  it  on  the  soil  in  the  pot  and  lay  a  small  stone  on  it  to  keep  it  in 
its  place.  When  the  plant  has  become  well  rooted  ia  the  pot,  it  should 
be  lifted,  the  runner  cut  off  both  sides  close  to  the  plant,  then  set  the 
pots  away  in  an  open  and  airy  place  for  a  week  or  two,  being  careful 
to  give  them  plenty  of  water.  They  should  always  be  placed  on  boards 


THE   STRAWBERRY  CTJLTURIST.  23 

instead  of  the  ground,  for  in  the  latter  case,  worms  will  be  very  likely 
to  enter  the  pots  through  the  hole  in  their  bottom.  When  the  pots 
have  become  filled  with  roots,  and  before  they  become  matted,  shift 
into  four  or  four-and-a-half  inch  pots,  in  which  they  should  remain 
a  few  months  and  then  be  changed  to  six-inch  pots,  in  which  they  are 
to  fruit.  Some  prefer  to  give  them  two  shifts  ;  others  put  them  into 
the  large  pots  at  once  from  those  in  which  they  are  struck.  Either 
plan  will  work  well  if  the  operation  is  carefully  done.  Care  should 
be  observed  in  re-potting  to  not  break  the  ball  of  earth  around  the 
plants,  and  to  have  the  soil  put  around  the  plant  of  the  same  consist- 
ency as  that  of  the  ball  itself.  The  crown  of  the  plant  should  be  about 
level  with  the  top  of  the  pot. 

Good  drainage  is  very  important,  and  to  secure  it,  lay  first  over  the 
hole  of  the  pot  a  piece  of  a  broken  pot,  or  shell,  with  the  concave  side 
down,  then  place  a  few  small  pieces  around  and  on  the  top  of  this, 
over  which  put  a  piece  of  old  sod  or  moss,  and  a  small  handful  of  ashes 
or  soot  over  all,  to  prevent  worms  from  entering  from  below.  The 
larger  the  pots  the  more  drainage  must  be  used.  No  drainage  is 
needed  for  the  little  pots  that  are  placed  in  the  open  ground  in  which 
the  runners  are  first  struck. 

When  the  plants  have  received  their  final  shift  into  the  large  pots, 
they  should  be  placed  upon  a  low  staging,  or  upon  slats,  in  the  open  air, 
so  that  the  hole  in  the  pot  shall  not  be  closed.  Attend  to  watering,  and 
by  the  first  of  November  they  are  ready  for  early  forcing  or  putting  away 
for  fruiting  later  in  the  season.  Where  a  succession  of  crops  is  desired, 
only  a  portion  at  a  time  should  be  placed  in  the  forcing-house  4  the 
others  being  kept  in  a  cool  place,  from  which  they  may  be  taken  as  de- 
sired. It  requires  from  ten 
to  fourteen  weeks  from  the 
time  the  plants  are  placed 
in  heat  until  the  fruit  will 
be  ripe. 

The  best  place  to  store  the 
plants  potted  for  forcing 
during  the  winter  is  the  Vis'  9' 

wailed  pit  (Figure  9),  which  should  be  made  partly  in  the  ground  ana 


24  THE   STRAWBERRY    CULTTJRI8T. 

partly  above  it.  The  walls  are  formed  of  brick  or  stone,  or  board* 
filled  In  with  sawdust  or  tan-bark,  finished  with  a  coping  and  covered 
with  movable  glass  sashes.  In  such  a  pit  they  will  not  freeze  during 
the  coldest  weather,  if  the  sash  is  covered  with  straw  mats  or  board 
shutters  that  fit  closely. 

Watering  the  plants  is  one  of  the  most  important  operations  in  forc- 
ing any  kind  of  fruit,  yet  I  can  give  no  precise  direction  as  to  time  or 
quantity,  as  it  depends  so  much  upon  circumstances  which  are  variable. 
But  one  person  should  always  attend  to  this  operation,  for  by  so  do- 
ing they  will  soon  learn  the  quantity  the  plants  will  require. 

The  plants  should  be  syringed  over  head  every  day  with  pure  water, 
and  the  temperature  should  be  65  to  75  degrees  by  day,  and  50  to  GO 
by  night.  When  the  plants  come  into  bloom,  the  syringing  should  be 
dispensed  with  and  plenty  of  air  admitted,  enough  to  get  up  a  circula- 
tion if  possible. 

It  is  seldom  necessary  to  give  the  plants  any  stimulant  if  the  soil  in 
the  pots  be  properly  prepared ;  but  if  it  is  ever  desirable  to  push 
them  a  little  more  rapidly,  they  may  be  sparingly  watered  with 
guano  water,  say  four  pounds  to  the  barrel,  or  other  liquid  manure, 
each  as  two  or  three  shovelfuls  of  cow  manure  to  a  barrel  of  water. 
A  solution  of  nitrate  of  soda,  say  an  ounce  to  eight  gallons  of  water, 
sprinkled  regularly  over  the  surface  of  the  soil,  is  not  so  offensive,  and 
nearly  as  good  as  manure  water.  When  the  fruit  is  set,  a  higher  de- 
gree of  temperature  may  be  maintained,  say  ten  degrees  by  day  and  fiv< 
by  night.  If  the  plants  are  placed  on  a  stage  in  the  forcing-house, 
more  care  will  be  needed  in  watering  than  when  plunged  in  soil ;  and 
where  staging  is  used,  it  is  best  to  place 
the  pots  within  another  pot,  as  shown  in 
Figure  10,  the  outside  pot,  c,  being  about 
one  inch  more  in  diameter  than  the  inside 
one,  the  space,  a,  between  being  filled  with 
moss,  which  should  be  kept  constantly 
moist.  The  roots  of  the  plant  will  soon 
fill  the  pot  and  grow  more  or  less  on  the 
Fig.  10.  outside  of  the  ball  of  earth  against  the 

pot ;  and  as  the  pots  are  placed  so  that  the  sunlight  or  a  free  circula- 


THE    STRAWBERRY    CULTURIST.  25 

tion  of  air  passes  around  them,  they  soon  become  dry,  which  of  course 
soon  injures  the  roots  immediately  in  contact  with  it,  although  at  the 
same  time  the  mass  of  soil  inside  may  contain  all  the  moisture  needed. 
To  guard  against  injury  to  the  roots,  it  is  best  to  plunge  the  pots  in 
earth,  or  grow  them  in  double  pots.  This  insures  a  more  regular  sup- 
ply of  moisture. 

Those  who  have  no  glass-house  in  which  to  force  the  plants,  may 
hasten  the  ripening  by  placing  the  plants  in  a  common  hot-bed  (see 
cut)  early  in  the  spring,  giving  them  air  on  pleasant  days  and  closing 
the  frames  at  night. 

The  common  hot-bed  is  made  by  excavating  the  ground  to  the 
depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  and  laying  a  strata  of  horse  manure 
and  leaves  alternately  therein,  making  the  whole  about  two 
feet  deep.  The  frame  (Figure  11)  is  a  bottomless  box  of  wood 
with  sloping  top  covered  with  a  glass  sash.  The  size  and  form 


Fig.  H. 

are  not  material,  but  from  four  to  six  feet  wide  and  from  six  to 
ten  feet  long  is  a  good  size.  The  bed  should  be  six  inches  larger  each 
way  than  the  frame  which  is  to  cover  it,  and  slope  slightly  toward  the 
south.  When  completed,  put  on  the  frame,  close  the  sash  and  keep  it 
on  till  fermentation  commences,  which  will  be  when  the  steam  ap- 
pears on  the  glass.  Then  give  the  bed  air  a  little  while  during  the 
warmest  part  of  the  day.  In  three  or  four  days  cover  the  surface  from 
four  to  six  inches  deep  with  fine,  rich  garden  mold.  In  this  mold 
plunge  the  pots  containing  the  plants  to  within  one  inch  of  the  top, 
•etting  the  pots  at  a  distance  of  about  one  foot  from  center  to  center. 
The  same  kind  of  frame,  without  the  aid  of  bottom  heat,  will  ad- 
vance the  ripening  of  the  fruit  at  least  a  month.  Those  persons  who 
have  but  little  ground  may,  by  having  a  few  frames,  secure  a  succes- 
sion of  this  delicious  fruit.  One  gentleman  in  this  city,  who  has  no 


26  THE    STEAWBEKEY   CULTTJEIST. 

room  for  a  strawberry  bed — in  fact,  he  has  no  garden,  nothing  but  a  small 
yard,  which  is  paved,  and  upon  which  the  sun  shines  only  a  part  of  the 
day — yet  grows  many  quarts  of  fine  strawberries  every  year.  His 
mode  is  to  get  plants  that  have  been  potted  in  the  fall  and  all  ready 
for  fruiting  ;  these  he  places  upon  the  sunny  side  of  the  pavement  in 
the  morning,  and  moves  them  in  the  afternoon  upon  the  other  side, 
having  them  placed  upon  a  platform  that  is  easily  and  readily  moved. 
The  watering  and  moving  are  attended  to  by  the  children',  and  by  their 
constant  watchfulness  and  care  they  learn  to  love  and  admire  the 
plants ;  and  when  the  fruit  ripens,  each  specimen  is  looked  upon  as  the 
fruit  of  their  labor  and  more  highly  prized  than  if  bought  from  the 
market.  Each  plant  usually  gave  one  quart  of  fine  fruit.  I  mention 
this  merely  to  show  under  what  difficult  circumstances  this  beautiful 
fruit  may  be  grown.  It  should  not  be  forgotten  that,  if  we  expect 
good  results,  the  plants  that  are  to  be  fruited  hi  pots  must  be  potted 
the  fall  previous,  and  placed  in  a  frame  covered  with  glass  during 
the  winter,  where  they  will  not  be  frozen,  but  it  should  not  be  warm 
enough  to  excite  the  plants  into  growth. 

Plants  that  have  fruited  once  in  pots  are  of  but  little  use,  and  it  is 
better  to  plant  them  out,  and  take  a  few  runners  from  them,  or  get  a 
fresh  supply  from  young,  healthy  plants. 

PROPAGATION. 

Having  given  on  a  preceding  page  a  description  of  the  best  method 
of  propagation  by  seed,  I  omit  any  further  remarks  on  that  point,  and 
mention  the  other  modes  only. 

BY  HUNKERS. — These  are  young  shoots  that  issue  from  the  collar  or 
crown  of  the  plant ;  they  are  produced  by  most  species  of  the  straw- 
berry in  great  abundance,  furnishing  a  ready  and  convenient  mode  of 
propagation.  All  that  is  necessary  in  propagating  by  runners  is  to 
permit  the  young  plant  to  become  well  rooted  before  removing  from 
the  parent.  But  as  several  plants  are  generally  formed  on  each  run- 
ner, it  is  requisite  that  the  second  plant  from  the  parent  plant  should 
be  well  rooted  before  the  first  is  removed.  The  first  plant  on  the 
runner  obtains  its  nutriment  from  the  parent  until  it  produces  roots 
sufficiently  to  support  itself,  after  which  it  draws  but  little,  if  any, 


THE  STRAWBERRY   CTJLTURIST.  9T 

from  it  The  second  plant  on  the  runner  draws  from  the  first  until 
its  roots  become  established  in  the  soil ;  and  so  each  one  draws  upon 
the  one  preceding  it,  provided  the  soil  is  such  that  roots  can  pene- 
trate it  and  find  food  to  support  the  plant ;  if  not,  then  each  plant 
on  the  runner  will  derive  its  food  from  the  parent  plant  until  such 
time  as  it  becomes  rooted. 

Knowing  this,  we  should  adopt  every  measure  that  will  insure  the 
rooting  of  the  young  plant  so  soon  as  possible,  as  a  precaution  against 
its  drawing  too  much  upon  the  strength  of  the  parent  plant. 

In  preparing  soil  for  propagating  plants,  it  should  be  made  much 
deeper  and  richer  than  when  prepared  solely  for  growing  plants  for 
fruit.  The  manure  used  may  be  quite  new,  and  of  a  more  stimulating 
nature.  The  surface  of  the  soil  should  always  be  kept  in  such  a  con- 
dition that  the  young  rootlets  can  easily  penetrate  it. 

The  method  that  I  have  found  the  most  successful  is  to  make  the 
soil  quite  rich  before  planting,  and  put  the  plants  at  least  two  feet 
apart  one  way,  and  eighteen  inches  the  other.  Cut  off  all  fruit-stalks 
as  soon  as  they  appear  ;  keep  all  weeds  down,  and  stir  the  surface  of 
the  soil  as  often  as  possible.  When  the  runners  start,  cover  the  whole 
surface  of  the  soil  one  half  to  one  inch  deep  with  fine,  well-decom- 
posed stable  manure  ;  this  not  only  furnishes  food  to  the  plants,  but 
it  keeps  the  surface  of  the  soil  moist,  allowing  the  young  roots  te 
penetrate  readily,  and  it  attracts  the  roots  ;  in  other  words,  it  stimu- 
lates the  vital  principle  to  throw  out  roots.  "We  know  that  they  are 
attracted  toward  congenial  food,  and  repelled  by  that  which  is  uncon 
genial,  and  by  placing  a  slight  coating  of  manure  on  the  surface,  it 
comes  immediately  in  contact  with  the  runner  and  induces  it  to 
throw  out  roots  much  sooner  than  it  would  if  placed  at  some  distance 
from  it. 

The  principle  on  which  manure  acts  on  the  plant  before  it  comes  in 
contact  with  it,  may  or  may  not  be  fully  understood ;  yet  the  fact  that 
it  often  does  is  sufficient  for  our  purpose  at  present.  By  placing  one 
runner  without  roots  upon  a  piece  of  manure,  and  another  upon  a 
sponge,  keeping  both  moist,  we  can  soon  ascertain  that  the  manure  is 
the  more  congenial  of  the  two.  A  full  supply  of  water  should  be 
given  the  plants  if  convenient,  as  it  will  assist  them  very  much,  I 


28  THE   STKAWBEBKY   CULTTJR1ST. 

have  found  that  a  pound  of  sal  soda  or  common  potash  to  a  barrel  of 
water,  and  the  plants  watered  with  the  solution,  will  stimulate  them 
to  produce  an  immense  amount  of  runners.  The  potash  acts  upon  the 
vegetable  fiber  in  the  soil  as  well  as  upon  the  manure  upon  the  sur- 
face, decomposing  it  very  rapidly,  making  it  soluble,  and  conse- 
quently readily  absorbed  by  the  roots.  Besides,  I  have  found  the 
plants  less  troubled  by  insects  and  grubs  where  the  potash  was  used 
than  where  it  was  not. 

The  quantity  of  plants  that  can  be  produced  from  a  single  plant  in 
one  season  depends  very  much  upon  the  character  of  the  variety; 
some  kinds  produce  many  more  than  others  when  subjected  to  the 
same  treatment,  and  it  is  not  always  the  most  vigorous  growers  that 
produce  the  most  runners. 

I  planted,  in  the  spring  of  1860,  four  thousand  Triomphes  de  Gand, 
which  produced  one  hundred  thousand  the  first  season,  or  an  average 
of  twenty-five  to  the  plant,  without  any  special  care  or  artificial  appli- 
cation of  moisture.  The  soil  was  trenched  two  feet  deep,  and  a 
liberal  supply  of  manure  given  it  before  planting.  "With  the  Downer's 
Prolific,  I  have  grown  at  an  average  rate  of  one  hundred  to  the  plant. 
An  increase  of  fifty  to  one  is  a  good  yield,  but  one  hundred  to  one 
is  not  uncommon. 

The  young  plants  are  usually  taken  up  in  September,  at  which  time 
there  are  many  plants  on  the  runners  that  are  not  well  rooted.  These 
may  be  planted  close  together  in  a  bed  previously  prepared  and  raado 
very  rich  ;  give  them  a  good  soaking  of  water  so  as  to  settle  the  soil 
around  them  ;  then  cover  with  hay  or  straw,  just  enough  to  shade  the 
plants,  and  give  an  occasional  watering  if  the  weather  should  prove 
dry.  In  this  position  the  plants  will  soon  throw  out  new  roots,  and 
in  a  week  or  ten  days  the  covering  may  be  removed.  Small,  partially 
rooted  plants,  if  treated  in  this  manner,  will  become  good,  strong 
plants  by  the  time  cold  weather  sets  in,  at  which  time  they  should  I* 
again  covered,  and  transplanted  in  the  following  spring. 

The  small,  unrooted  runners  may  also  be  potted  in  small  pots,  and 
placed  in  a  greenhouse,  or  in  frames  that  have  been  used  for  hot-beds  ; 
if  there  is  a  little  heat  remaining  in  it,  so  much  the  better.  When 
treated  ttius,  they  will  make  better  plants  than  when  planted  in  tlw 


THE   STRAWBERRY   CULTDSI8T.  29 

open  ground,  but  ii  is  more  expensive,  and  will  not  pay  for  the  trouble 
unless  the  variety  is  scarce  and  valuable. 

When  placed  under  glass,  they  will  require  protection  from  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun  until  they  are  rooted,  at  which  time  they  must 
have  plenty  of  air  and  water  until  they  ate  sufficiently  strong  to  allow 
the  sash  to  be  removed.  They  may  then  be  potted  into  larger  pots, 
and  used  for  forcing,  or  planted  out  into  the  open  ground. 

The  Bush  Alpine  strawberry  is  sometimes  propagated  by  taking  up 
the  old  stools  in  the  spring  or  early  autumn,  dividing  them  into 
single  crowns  and  then  replanting  them.  But  a  much  better  way  is 
to  sow  the  seeds  (see  page  21),  whenever  it  is  necessary  to  renew  the 
beds  or  to  produce  more  plants,  as  the  fruit  from  the  seedling  is 
always  larger  and  better  than  it  is  from  old  and  partially  exhausted 
plants. 

VARIETIES    FOR    FORCING. 

Very  few  experiments  have  been  made  with  our  native  varieties  to 
ascertain  their  relative  merits  in  reference  to  pot  culture.  The  fruit 
is  seldom  so  high  flavored  when  grown  under  glass  as  when  in  the 
open  ground  ;  therefore  it  is  best  to  choose  the  highest  flavored  varie- 
ties for  the  purpose,  provided  they  will  succeed,  as  it  is  not  every 
variety  that  grows  well  and  is  productive  in  the  open  ground  that  is 
equally  so  under  glass.  Among  those  that  are  known  to  be  good  for 
forcing  are  the  Hooker,  Bartlett,  Vicomptesse,  and  Trollop's  Victoria. 
The  latter  variety  makes  a  fine  show,  but  it  wants  flavor.  The  Bart- 
lett has  been  known  to  fruit  eight  months  without  cessation.  All 
that  is  required  is  to  keep  off  all  runners  and  give  plenty  of  water, 
with  an  occasional  dose  of  liquid  manure.  Doubtless  there  are  many 
others  that  are  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  these,  but  I  have  no  facts  to 
determine  their  relative  merits  for  the  purpose. 

INSECTS. 

The  insects  to  which  the  strawberry  is  most  subjected,  when  culti- 
vated in  pots,  are  the  red  spider  and  green  fly,  or  aphis.  The  red 
spider  is  more  troublesome  in  a  dry  atmosphere,  while  the  aphis  likes 
cold  and  moisture ;  but  if  the  plants  are  kept  vigorous  and  healthy, 
few  insects  will  attack  them.  Tobacco-smoke  or  syringings  with  to- 


80  THE   STRAWBERRY   CITLTURIST. 

bacco  liquor  will  eradicate  the  aphis,  and  flour  of  sulphur  scattered 
freely  among  the  plants  will  kill  the  red  spider. 

In  open-ground  culture,  slugs,  snails,  and  wire- worms  are  sometimes 
troublesome  ;  but  they  may  be  readily  destroyed  by  dusting  the  plants 
and  entire  surface  of  the  soil  with  fresh  slacked  lime.  When  the 
ground  is  kept  mulched,  the  wire-worms  find  a  safe  retreat  under  it, 
and  free  use  of  lime  is  often  necessary  to  destroy  them. 

Ants  are  sometimes  troublesome  when  the  fruit  is  ripening,  and 
their  nests  should  be  found  and  treated  with  a  dose  of  hot  water  or 
guano.  The  grub,  or  cut- worm,  as  it  is  called,  is  very  destructive  in 
some  sections  of  the  country.  They  eat  off  the  roots  close  to  the 
crown,  and  the  plant  soon  turns  yellow  and  dies.  The  only  sure  way 
that  I  have  ever  found  of  eradicating  them  is  to  dig  up  the  plant  so 
soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow,  and  kill  the  grub,  which  you 
will  invariably  find  under  the  plant  if  you  dig  in  time.  It  is  also 
well  to  examine  the  soil  carefully  when  preparing  the  beds,  and  de- 
stroy all  that  are  found.  Mice  will  sometimes  attack  the  plants  that 
are  in  the  frames,  but  pussy  or  the  trap  will  soon  take  care  of  these. 

RETARDING    RIPENING. 

To  retard  the  ripening  of  the  strawberry  is  often  as  desirable  as  t« 
force  or  produce  fruit  early,  or  out  of  its  natural  season.  When  grown 
in  pots  it  is  a  very  simple  process,  all  that  is  required  to  produce  a  lat. 
crop  being  to  place  the  plants  hi  a  cool  northern  exposure  early  in  tht 
season,  or  before  they  commence  growth,  and  keep  them  there  so  long 
as  the  health  of  the  plant  does  not  suffer  for  want  of  light  and  air. 
The  north  side  of  a  wall,  or  in  frames,  with  the  sash  having  an  incli- 
nation to  the  north,  will  answer  the  purpose  for  retarding  the  fruit. 

For  late  crops,  it  is  always  best  to  choose  the  very  latest  varieties- 
Austin,  Triomphe  de  Gand,  and  Trollop's  Victoria  are  excellent 
varieties  for  this  purpose.  Too  sudden  transition  from  cold  to  heat 
should  be  guarded  against,  for  the  embryo  fruit  buds  are  formed 
within  the  plants  months  previous  to  this  development,  and  they  re- 
quire time  and  a  steady  increase  of  temperature,  for  naturally  the 
strawberry  requires  about  three  months  to  develop  and  bring  its  fruit 
to  maturity ;  and  though  we  may  hasten  the  time  somewhat,  we  can 


THE   STRAWBERRY   CTJLTTJRI8T.  31 

not  push  nature  past  certain  limits  without  causing  a  part  to  be  de- 
ficient. 

To  produce  fruit,  there  must  form  a  calyx,  corolla,  stamens,  and 
pistils,  and  these  do  not  always  grow  uniformly ;  that  is,  we  may  force 
so  rapidly  that  the  calyx  and  corolla  will  form,  but  there  will  be  iy 
stamens  or  pistils,  and  consequently  no  fruit. 

A  sudden  change  from  heat  to  cold,  or  vice  versa,  will  cause  the  plants 
to  "  go  blind"  or  become  barren.  Knowing  this,  we  guard  against  it 
by  bringing  the  plants  from  a  cool  situation  into  one  that  is  slightly 
warm,  and  then  to  one  that  is  still  warmer,  and  so  by  two  or  three 
changes  get  them  into  a  situation  where  they  may  have  the  full 
amount  of  heat  required. 

When  the  fruit  is  to  be  ripened  under  glass,  the  plants  may  be 
brought  from  the  retarding  frames  and  at  once  placed  in  a  position 
where  they  are  to  ripen  their  fruit ;  but  they  must  be  kept  partially 
shaded  at  first,  and  the  house  or  frames  quite  cool  (no  bottom  heat 
being  required),  the  temperature  being  increased  gradually  until  they 
show  fruit ;  then  they  may  be  hastened  through  the  ripening  process 
if  desired. 

Plants  that  have  been  forced  early  in  the  season  may  be  turned  out 
into  the  open  ground,  and  if  the  runners  are  removed  so  soon  as  they 
appear,  and  the  plants  constantly  supplied  with  water,  they  will 
usually  produce  a  fair  crop,  and  often  a  very  large  crop  of  fruit  in 
autumn. 

The  plants  that  have  fruited  in  pots  are  of  little  value  except  for  the 
purpose  of  producing  a  late  crop,  after  which  they  may  be  thrown 
aside  and  their  place  supplied  with  fresh  plants. 

The  ripening  of  the  fruit  may  be  considerably  retarded  when  the 
plants  are  grown  in  the  open  ground,  if  planted  on  the  north  side  of  a 
bank,  or  upon  a  northern  hillside,  always  taking  the  precaution  to 
select  the  very  latest  variety  for  this  purpose. 

Banks  three  or  four  feet  high  and  six  feet  wide,  running  from  east 
to  west,  the  sides  being  terraced  and  held  in  place  by  boards,  brick, 
or  stone,  are  excellent  places  to  not  only  hasten  the  crop,  but  also  to 
retard  it.  The  early  varieties  are  planted  on  the  south,  and  the  late  on 
the  north  side  Place  the  plants  one  foot  apart,  and  only  one  row  on  each 


32  THE   STRAWBERRY    CULTURIST. 

terrace,  which,  if  the  bank  is  four  feet  high  and  twelve  feet  broad  at 
the  base,  will  give  six  steps  or  terraces  of  one  foot  wide  and  eight 
inches  high  on  each  side,  or  twelve  rows  in  all.  Plants  grown  upon 
banks  require  more  attention  than  those  grown  upon  level  ground,  for 
they  must  be  watered  regularly,  and  the  ground  kept  constantly  covered 
with  some  kind  of  mulch. 

If  a  row  of  small  evergreen  shrubs  is  planted  on  the  top  of  the 
bank,  so  as  to  partially  shade  the  plants  on  the  north  side,  it  will  assist 
in  retarding  ripening.  Another  method  of  producing  a  late  crop  is  to 
cut  off  all  the  flowers  when  they  first  appear,  and  then  by  giving 
plenty  of  water  make  the  plants  give  a  second  crop.  These  plans  of 
retarding  or  producing  a  second  crop  are  practicable  only  in  a  small 
way,  and  only  valuable  to  the  amateur. 

The  Monthly  Alpine  strawberry  furnishes  a  regular  and  constant  crop 
of  fruit  from  June  to  winter,  with  ordinary  culture,  but  the  quantity 
produced  is  not  large,  nor  of  the  best  quality ;  yet  it  is  well  worthy 
of  a  place  even  in  the  smallest  garden. 

PROPERTIES  OP  THE    STRAWBERRY. 

The  properties  of  a  good  strawberry  are  as  follows  : 

1st.  The  flavor  should  be  rich  and  aromatic,  consequently  it  must 
contain  a  large  amount  of  the  peculiar  acids  belonging  to  it  as  well  a» 
a  large  amount  of  sugar  ;  the  latter  should  slightly  predominate. 

2d.  The  flesh  should  be  firm,  but  melting  and  solid  throughout. 

3d.  The  form  should  be  regular,  whether  round,  conical,  or  other- 
wise. I  prefer  the  conical. 

4th.  Color :  1st,  scarlet ;  2d,  crimson  scarle*  ;  3d,  crimson  ;  4th, 
dark  crimson ;  5th,  white. 

5th.  The  calyx  should  part  readily  from  the  berry  without  breaking 
the  flesh. 

6th.  The  plant  should  be  productive. 

7th.  The  fruit-stalks  should  be  long  and  stout. 

8th.  Leaves  large,  abundant,  thick,  and  of  good  substance. 

9th.  The  plants  should  be  vigorous  and  hardy,  being  not  only  ca- 
pable of  withstanding  the  cold  of  winter,  but  the  heat  of  summer, 
and  producing  a  only  moderate  number  of  good  strong  runners. 


THE   STRAWBERRY  CTJLTURIST.  33 

A  strawberry  to  become  a  general  favorite  in  this  country,  must 
possess  not  only  richness  and  other  good  qualities,  but  that  peculiar 
fragrance  found  in  perfection  only  in  the  wild  strawberry  of  North 
America ;  and  many  of  our  new  varieties  have  scarcely  a  particle 
of  this  delightful  perfume,  and  would  hardly  be  recognized  by  theii 
fragrance  alone  as  belonging  to  the  strawberry  family. 

A  strawberry  of  moderate  size,  say  one  to  one  and  a  half  inches  in 
diameter,  is  certainly  as  good  if  not  better  than  one  that  is  much 
larger ;  but  everybody  wants  strawberries  larger  than  his  neighbor, 
if  for  no  other  purpose  than  to  make  people  stare  and  excite  the  ad- 
miration of  the  uninitiated.  So  long  as  people  will  admire  and  pay 
an  extra  price  for  extra  size  fruit  without  regard  to  quality,  just  so 
long  will  the  cultivator  endeavor  to  produce  the  largest  possible. 
The  time  was  when  strawberries  were  really  too  small  for  conveni- 
ence, but  that  time  is  past,  and  now  the  other  qualities  should  have 
due  care  and  attention.  In  this  respect  they  have  been  sadly 
neglected  by  cultivators,  and  many  of  our  great  strawberries  are 
existing  witnesses  of  the  fact. 

Such  faults  as  the  fruit  being  hollow,  soft,  dull  color,  insipid,  acid, 
calyx  adhering  so  firmly  to  the  berry  that  the  latter  is  torn  in  pieces 
or  crushed  in  separating,  and  many  other  faults,  are  too  common  with 
the  larger  varieties  in  cultivation. 

GROWTH  OP  VARIETIES. 

Although  all  the  varieties  of  the  strawberry  have  a  family  resem- 
blance, yet  the  difference  in  the  foliage  and  manner  of  growth  is  very 
marked ;  some  having  very  dark,  glossy,  green  foliage,  with  reddish 
foot-stalks ;  others  are  pale  green,  and  quite  rough.  The  leaf-stalks 
(petiole)  of  some  species  are  mostly  smooth  ;  for  instance,  those  of  the 
grandiflora,  while  others  are  pubescent,  or  almost  hairy,  like  the  Iowa, 
and  the  seedlings  therefrom.  The  lobes  of  the  leaves  vary  from  linear 
to  ovate,  broad  ovate,  and  sometimes  nearly  rhomboid. 

The  edges  of  the  leaves  are  all  serrated,  but  some  deeply  and 
coarsely,  the  serratures  being  sharp,  others  blunt  or  broad  at  the 
point,  while  others  are  very  small.  All  these  variations  assist  the  cul- 
tivator in  determining  kinds.  Those  that  have>  small,  thin  foliage 

20 


THE   STRAWBERRY   CULTTJRIST. 

usually  possess  but  little  vigor,  seldom,  producing  much  fruit  or  very 
large.  On  the  other  hand,  a  variety  may  run  too  much  to  foliage,  and 
consequently  be  unproductive,  but  the  strong  growers  should  be  relied 
upon,  as  it  is  only  through  such  that  we  can  expect  any  great  increase 
in  size  or  productiveness. 

The  difference  in  growth  of  the  roots  of  strawberries  is  also  worthj 
of  notice.  Some  are  long,  thread-like,  as  those  of  the  Crimson  Cone, 
penetrating  deeply  into  the  soil,  while  others  have  short,  fleshy  roots. 
Kivers'  Eliza  is  very  peculiar  in  this  respect,  for  in  some  soils  it  is  al- 
most tuberous. 

The  foliage  will  not  indicate  the  form  of  the  roots,  as  those  of  some 
of  the  tall  growers  are  very  short.  These  variations  in  the  form  of 
roots,  when  observed,  will  often  assist  us  in  determining  what  kind  01 
particular  soil  will  best  suit  a  particular  variety.  The  short-rooted 
varieties  must  have  a  more  moist  and  deeper  prepared  soil  to  encour- 
age their  elongation,  while  the  long  wire-rooted  kinds  go  deeply  and 
widely  in  search  of  food,  even  in  unfavorable  soils.  The  latter  suc- 
ceed much  better  in  dry  sandy  soils  than  the  former. 

There  is  another  peculiarity  in  the  growth  of  different  varieties 
which  has  been  too  little  studied,  namely,  those  that  produce  stools 
or  crowns  adhering  together,  and  those  that  do  not. 

Figure  12  is  an  exact  representation,  half  size,  of  a  plant  of  the  Bart- 
lett  that  has  borne  two  crops  and  is  three  years  old.  While  it  shows  a 
number  of  crowns,  there  are  not  more  than  two  that  are  united  on  one 
stem.  This  variety  divides  of  itself,  and  will  not  form  a  large  stool  and 
remain  united.  If  the  runners  are  kept  removed,  you  can  compel  the 
plant  to  form  large  clusters  of  crowns,  from  which  a  larger  number  of 
fruit-stalks  will  grow  ;  yet  this  cluster  of  crowns  will  generally  issue 
from  individual  plants — the  plant  seeming  to  divide  of  its  own  accord, , 
more  than  two  crowns  seldom  remaining  united,  except  by  the  inter- 
lacing of  the  roots. 

Every  season,  as  the  fruit-stalks  push  up,  new  crowns  are  formed  at 
the  sides  of  those  that  have  produced  fruit,  and  soon  after  forming  they 
emit  new  roots  above  the  old  ones,  and  are  thus  supplied  with  food 
through  the  new  roots,  the  old  ones  merely  answering  as  an  anchor 
to  hold  the  plant  hi  its  place.  These  crowns  not  only  soon  divide 


THE    STRAWBERRY    CULTURIST. 


35 


36  THE   STKAWBEEEY   CULTUBIST. 

themselves  and  become  individual  plants,  but  they  are  constantly  re- 
newing themselves,  while  at  the  same  time  their  crowns  remain  nearly 
level  with  the  surface.  Hovey,  Walker,  Jenny  Lind,  in  fact  most  of 
our  native  scarlets  are  of  this  class,  and  they  will  bear  from  fair  to 
very  large  crops,  even  when  the  plants  are  allowed  to  grow  thickly  all 
over  the  ground. 

I  would  not  advise  the  growing  of  the  strawberry  in  this  manner, 
as  I  think  it  much  better  to  cultivate  them  in  rows,  keeping  off  the 
runners ;  yet  there  are  many  persons  who  will  not  take  this  trouble, 
and  further,  they  claim  that  it  is  more  profitable  to  grow  them  in 
mass  than  in  rows. 

Those  of  an  opposite  character,  represented  in  Figure  13,  which  was 
drawn,  half-size,- from  a  Triomphe  de  Gand  of  the  same  age  as  the  Bart- 
lett,  shown  in  Figure  12,  should  always  be  grown  singly,  as  they  will 
not  produce  half  a  crop  if  allowed  to  run  thickly  together.  They  are 
seldom  as  hardy,  as  their  crowns  or  fruit-buds  are  more  elevated  and 
exposed  to  the  cold.  It  will  be  observed,  by  examining  the  en- 
graving, that  all  the  crowns  are  united  to  the  main  stem,  showing  no 
inclination  to  separate.  A,  C,  and  D  represent  side  crowns,  and  B  the 
central  one  ;  E  represents  the  old  fruit-stalk  of  the  present  season ; 
F,  F,  new  roots  starting  from  the  side  crowns  above  the  soil.  This 
variety  is  more  spreading  in  its  habit,  and  produces  its  new  crowns 
almost  on  the  top  of  the  old  ones,  instead  of  upon  the  side,  as  in  the 
former  class. 

They  soon  become  so  high  above  ground  that  the  new  roots  can  not 
or  do  not  reach  the  soil  in  sufficient  numbers  to  furnish  the  plant  with 
nutriment.  Many  of  our  very  best  varieties  are  of  this  class.  They 
require  special  culture,  with  which  they  are  very  productive  and  val- 
uable, and  they  must  have  more  room  than  those  varieties  that  pro- 
duce but  single  crowns  or  many  in  a  cluster,  each  depending  upon  its 
own  roots  for  support. 

When  grown  in  rows  or  hills,  the  soil  may  be  hoed  up  to  the 
plants  after  they  have  borne  two  or  three  crops.  By  this  means 
the  new  roots  are  covered,  and  the  plants  will  be  very  much  strength- 
ened, and  produce  fruit  a  year  or  two  longer  than  they  would  other- 
wise. 


THE   STKAWBEKEY   CULTTJRI8T. 


37 


38  THB   STRAWBERRY    CULTURI8T. 

A  plantation,  with  care,  may  be  kept  for  many  years,  but  ordinarily 
five  years  is  as  long  as  it  will  be  profitable. 

New  runners  may  be  allowed  to  grow  from  the  plants  the  season 
that  it  is  desirable  to  renew  the  beds,  and  a  row  set  between  the  rows 
of  the  old  plants,  and  then  the  old  plants  cut  out ;  but  I  prefer  mak- 
ing a  new  plantation,  and  upon  ground  that  has  had  no  strawberries 
grown  upon  it  for  several  years. 

There  are  several  insects  and  worms  that  are  particularly  fond  of 
the  strawberry,  and  their  larva  is  always  present  more  or  less  in  soils 
where  the  strawberry  has  long  been  cultivated,  and  for  this  reason, 
if  for  no  other,  they  should  be  planted  upon  new  ground. 

PACKING    THE     FRUIT. 

There  are  as  many  different  opinions  in  regard  to  the  best  method 
of  packing  fruit  for  market  as  there  are  contrivances  for  doing  it.  Of 
late,  new  patent  baskets,  all  claiming  to  have  superior  merits,  have 
been  introduced  in  such  numbers  that  cultivators  are  slow  to  adopt 
any.  That  we  need  something  different  from  the  small  splint  basket 
so  long  in  use  is  evident,  but  what  it  shall  be  is  difficult  to  determine. 

In  packing  round  baskets  there  is  a  loss  of  space,  and  those  that  are 
made  of  upright  splints,  with  sharp  edges,  are  liable  to  cut  the  fruit 
as  it  settles,  and  cause  the  juice  to  issue,  besides  destroying  the  fine 
appearance  of  the  fruit.  Square  baskets  or  boxes  seem  to  recommend 
themselves  for  various  reasons,  yet  round  ones  will  answer  every  pur- 
pose if  properly  made.  Those  who  are  engaged  in  manufacturing' such 
articles  should  endeavor  to  produce  a  box  or  basket  of  this  form,  that 
can  be  furnished  so  cheap  that  it  can  always  be  sold  with  the  fruit, 
Several  such  are  now  in  use,  and  with  a  little  modifying  they  will  an- 
swer the  purpose  very  well. 

The  size  of  the  boxes  should  be  regular — either  pints  or  quarts- 
good  measure  when  filled  level  with  the  brim  ;  no  heaping  will  answer, 
as  that  interferes  with  packing.  There  should  be  a  law  passed  com 
pelling  cultivators  to  send  their  fruit  to  market  in  baskets  or  boxes 
holding  a  certain  quantity,  for  as  it  now  is,  there  is  no  way  of  knowing 
what  strawberries  bring,  as  they  sell  by  the  basket,  some  of  which  hold 
a  sixth  of  a  quart,  and  from  that  up  to  a  full  quart.  If  the  fruit  sold 


THE   STRAWBERRY    CULTURISI.  39 

tor  EO  much  a  pint  or  quart,  then  the  purchaser  wo;  Id  know  just  what 
quantity  he  was  getting  for  his  money,  and  the  price  would  be  regu- 
lated  by  the  quality  as  well  as  the  quantity  in  market.  If  we  could  go 
into  market  and  learn  that  the  Wilson  strawberry  brought  so  much  per 
quart,  and  Triomphe  de  Grand  so  much  more,  it  would  look  as  though 
the  cultivator  of  choice  fruits  was  to  be  encouraged.  The  puWic  would 
Boon  learn  which  was  the  best,  and  the  cultivator  would  know  which 
was  bringing  the  best  price,  and  consequently  which  was  the  most 
profitable  for  him  to  grow. 

Now  strawberries  are  quoted  at  so  much  per  basket,  which  means 
something,  but  just  what  no  one  is  able  to  tell.  Uniformity  in  size 
of  basket  will  never  be  brought  about  until  there  are  strenuous  laws 
passed  for  that  purpose,  for  the  love  of  gain  is  too  strong  on  the  one 
hand,  and  carelessness  too  common  on  the  other. 

When  strawberries  are  to  be  sent  to  a  distance,  and  it  is  requisite 
that  they  should  arrive  at  their  destination  in  the  best  possible  con- 
dition, each  berry  should  be  enveloped  in  fine  tissue-paper,  and  a  good 
layer  of  cotton  placed  between  each  layer  of  fruit.  The  baskets  or 
boxes  should  be  shallow,  and  not  more  than  a  half  a  dozen  layers 
placed  in  any  one  of  them. 

Another  plan,  which  is  practiced  in  Europe,  is  to  have  a  box  made 
of  the  required  size,  with  thin  boards  as  false  bottoms  to  fit  in,  each 
one  resting  upon  slats  nailed  to  the  side  of  the  box ;  these  boards  are 
bored  full  of  small  holes,  the  holes  being  far  enough  apart  so  that  the 
fruit  will  not  touch  ;  the  fruit  is  picked  with  the  stems.  These  stems 
are  drawn  first  through  a  small  piece  of  paper  and  then  through  the 
holes,  and  fixed  with  a  small  peg  or  pin  on  the  under  side.  When  one 
of  the  boards  is  filled,  and  placed  in  its  position  in  the  box,  another 
is  taken,  and  so  on  until  the  box  is  full.  This  is  one  of  the  best 
methods  of  packing  strawberries  for  sending  to  exhibitions,  but  of 
course  Is  impracticable  for  market  purposes. 

PACKING  PLANTS. 

• 

Nurserymen  have  different  methods  of  packing  strawberry  plants, 
therefore  I  will  only  mention  the  manner  in  which  I  have  packed 
plants  foi  many  years,  and  with  excellent  success. 


4:0  THE   STRAWBERRY    CULTTJRIST. 

When  large  quantities  are  to  be  packed,  it  is  best  to  have  some 
hands  taking  up  the  plants  while  others  are  packing.  Take  up  the 
plants  with  a  trowel  or  fork  and  throw  them  Into  a  box,  and  so  soon 
as  a  few  hundred  are  up,  carry  them  into  the  packing -house,  count 
them  and  tie  twenty-five  in  a  bundle,  using  bass  bark  for  strings,  as 
this  is  cheap  and  convenient,  and  does  not  cut  the  plants  if  drawn 
tight. 

Twenty-five  is  a  convenient  number  to  hold  in  the  hand  while 
counting,  and  is  quickly  tied ;  besides,  the  smaller  the  bundle  the 
less  liable  are  the"  plants  to  heat  if  they  have  to  remain  long  together, 
and  four  bundles  making  a  hundred,  they  are  readily  counted. 

When  the  requisite  number  are  ready,  pack  them  in  boxes  that 
are  from  six  to  eight  inches  deep,  placing  a  layer  of  damp  moss  in  the 
bottom  and  against  the  side.  When  you  commence  putting  in  a 
layer  of  bundles,  set  them  upright,  and  then  put  in  another  thin 
layer  of  moss,  and  so  on  until  the  box  is  full.  Then  nail  slats  of  two 
or  three  inches  wide  across  the  top,  leaving  a  space  of  about  an  inch 
between  to  give  air  and  light  to  the  plants,  and  so  that  the  express- 
man or  other  carrier  may  see  what  he  has  in  his  care,  and  that  it  is 
perishable. 

Common  boot  and  shoe  boxes,  divided  lengthwise,  are  convenient 
and  light — besides,  they  can  usually  be  bought  very  cheap. 

When  many  thousand  plants  are  to  be  sent  in  one  order,  larger 
boxes  may  be  used,  and  several  layers  of  plants  put  in ;  but  if  they 
are  to  be  sent  to  any  great  distance,  a  single  layer  is  all  that  is^afe 
to  place  in  one  box.  The  purchaser  had  better  pay  for  more  boxes 
and  more  freight,  and  have  his  plants  delivered  in  good  order. 

One  great  error  with  most  packers  of  plants  is,  that  they  do  not 
make  any  calculation  as  to  how  long  the  plants  are  likely  to  be  on 
their  journey,  and  pack  all  alike,  whether  they  are  to  be  one  day  or 
one  month  reaching  their  destination.  This  should  not  be,  for  the 
plants  that  are  to  be  many  days  in  the  boxes  should  have  more  care 
than  .those  that  are  to  remain  there  but  a  short  tune.  The  moss 
used  in  packing  should  contain  more  water,  that  the  plants  may  be 
supplied  with  moisture  sufficient  to  prevent  wilting,  but  not  enough 
to  cause  them  to  rot.  There  is,  however,  but  little  danger  of  plants 


THE   STEAWBEEEY    CTJLTTJEIST.  41 

rotting  if  they  are  packed  as  I  have  described,  namely.,  only  one  layer 
hi  a  box,  and  the  foliage  exposed  to  light  and  air. 

SENDING  PLANTS  BY  MAIL. 

Thanks  to  the  liberal  postal  laws  of  our  country,  we  can  now  send 
strawberry  plants  in  small  quantities  cheaply  and  safely  to  any  part 
by  mail.  The  postage  being  only  one  cent  per  ounce  on  plants,  cut- 
tings, and  seeds,  in  packages  of  eight  ounces  or  less,  every  one 
should  avail  themselves  of  this  privilege,  and  widely  distribute  one 
of  the  best  of  all  fruits,  the  strawberry.  A  package  of  one  dozen 
plants,  packed  in  the  following  manner,  will  go  safely  to  any  part  of 
the  country  where  it  does  not  require  more  than  two  weeks  for  them 
to  reach  their  destination,  costing  from  three  to  six  cents  for  postage. 

Take  up  the  plants,  remove  all  the  soil,  and  cut  off  the  largest 
leaves ;  then  take  a  piece  of  oiled  silk  or  muslin,  about  eight  inches 
square,  place  a  thin  layer  of  very  fine  damp  moss  upon  it,  and  on  the 
moss  lay  first  three  or  four  plants,  then  a  little  more  moss,  then  a  few 
more  plants,  and  so  on,  until  your  dozen  or  two  is  all  in  ;  then  roll  up 
the  plants  hi  the  silk,  being  careful  that  moss  entirely  surrounds  them ; 
fold  over  and  tightly  around  the  roots,  but  leave  the  top  end  open. 
Then  tie  the  package  with  strong,  fine  twine,  after  which  envelop  th.6 
whole  with  good  strong  paper,  on  which  write  plainly  the  directions. 
The  top  end  must  be  left  open  for  the  inspection  of  the  postmaster. 
Postage  must  be  paid  in  advance  by  affixing  stamps. 

PROFITS  OF  STRAWBERRY  CULTURE. 

An  acre  of  the  best  varieties  of  strawberries  properly  cultivated  on 
ordinary  sandy  loam  will,  in  four  years,  produce  something  like  the 
following  results  : 

Three  crops,  of  300  bushels  each,  900  bushels,  at  12  cents  per  quart $8,456  00 

Cost  of  plants $T5  00 

Manure 200  00 

Labor  in  cultivating 200  00 

Mulching 50  00 

Picking,  2  ct3.  per  quart 576  00 

Bent  on  land,  $10  per  acre 40  00 1, 141  00 

Leaving  of  profit $2,81500 

If  ft  small  portion  of  the  plants  be  allowed  to  throw  out  runners. 


COOKING   AND  PRESERVING   STRAWBERRIES. 

the  side  of  them  will  add  considerably  to  the  income.  We  might, 
with  propriety,  deduct  the  cost  of  plants  from  the  expenses,  for,  at 
the  end  of  four  years,  more  new  plants  will  make,  after  the  crop  is 
taken  off,  if  allowed  to  run,  than  will  stock  ten  acres.  The  expenses 
are  calculated  for  the  neighborhood  of  New  York. 


COOKING  AND  PRESERVING  STRAWBERRIES. 


Strawberry  Short-Cake. 

INTO  three  pints  of  flour  rub,  dry,  two  teaspoons  heaping  full  of 
cream,  tartar  ;  add  half  a  tea-cup  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  soda  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  milk  and  water.  Mix  quickly  and 
thoroughly,  roll  to  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  in 
a  quick  oven. 

Take  a  quart  of  strawberries,  and  add  cream  and  sugar  to  make  a 
sauce.  For  this  purpose  small-sized,  rather  acid  berries  with  sprightly 
flavor  are  preferable. 

When  the  short-cake  is  done,  divide  it  in  three  layers,  butter  them, 
and  spread  the  strawberries  between.  Eat  while  warm. 

Strawberry  Dumplings. 

Make  crust  same  as  directed  for  short-cake ;  roll  half  an  inch  thick ; 
put  about  a  gill  of  strawberries  for  each  dumpling.  Bake,  steam,  or 
boil  half  an  hour. 

Strawberry  Pies. 

• 

Lone  your  pie-dish  with  crust  made  in  the  usual  manner ;  fill  the 
tlish  with  good  ripe  strawberries  of  medium  size ;  sprinkle  on  a  little 
flour,  and  sugar  in  proportion  to  the  acidity  of  the  berries.  Cover 
with  a  thin  crust. 

Strawberry  Jam. 

For  every  pound  of  strawberries  take  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of 
gugar.  The  berries  should  be  mashed  in  a  preserving  kettle,  and  the 


COOKING   AND   PRESERVING   STRAWBERRIES.  43 

sugar  thoroughly  mixed  with  them.     Boil  from  twenty  minutes  to 
half  an  hour,  stirring  constantly. 

Strawberry  Jelly. 

Take  strawberries  when  fully  ripe,  strain,  and  to  each  pint  of  juice 
add  a  pound  of  the  best  refined  sugar.  Boil  briskly,  skimming  when 
necessary,  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  it  will  jelly,  which  may 
be  known  by  dropping  a  little  in  cold  water.  If  done,  it  will  fall  to 
the  bottom  in  a  mass. 

Strawberry  Cream. 

Mash  the  fruit  gently ;  drain  it  on  a  sieve  ;  strew  a  little  sugar  on 
it;  when  well  drained  (without  being  pressed),  add  sugar  and  cream 
to  the  juice,  and,  if  too  thick,  a  little  milk.  Whisk  it  in  a  bowl,  and 
as  the  froth  rises,  lay  it  on  a  sieve  ;  when  no  more  will  rise,  put  the 
cream  in  a  dish  and  lay  the  froth  upon  it. 

To  Preserve  Strawberries  -without  Sugar. 

Put  the  fruit  in  the  preserving  kettle,  and,  if  very  dry,  add  a  little 
*vater  to  prevent  burning.  Boil  about  three  minutes,  or  just  long 
enough  to  be  sure  the  whole  mass  is  thoroughly  heated — not  cooked. 
Dip  into  cans,  filling  them  completely  ;  seal  quickly,  and  set  in  a  cool 
place.  (Glass  jars  containing  fruit  should  be  kept  in  a  dark  place  or 
covered  with  dark-colored  paper.)  Open,  and  add  sugar  several  hours 
before  using. 

Strawberry  "Wine. 

To  one  gallon  of  juice,  strained,  add  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  sugar 
(no  water) ;  let  it  stand  in  an  open  vessel  twenty-four  hours,  occasion- 
ally skimming  off  the  scum  that  rises.  Then  fill  the  cask  in  which  it 
is  put,  full,  reserving  enough  to  fill  up  as,  in  process  of  fermentation, 
it  runs  over.  When  the  fermentation  is  completed,  stop  tightly 
Let  it  stand  three  months,  draw  off,  and  bottle. 

Strawberries  and  Claret. 

Over  three  quarts  of  strawberries  pour  one  bottle  of  good  claret 
wine.  Add  sugar  to  suit  the  taste. 


CATALOGUE  OF  STRAWBERRIES. 


THK  following  list  comprises  the  names  of  the  Strawberries  in  all  authentic  worki 
to  which  I  have  had  access.  Although  it  may  not  enumerate  all  the  varieties,  it  i 
probably  more  complete  than  any  list  hitherto  published.  Many  of  the  sorts  here 
named  hare  passed  out  of  cultivation,  and  others  are  so  little  disseminated  that 
they  are  scarcely  known  out  of  the  locality  where  they  originated. 

The  syonyms  are  printed  in  italics. 


American  Scarlet, 

Bath  Scarlet,                        Brooks'  Prolific, 

Black   American,   New 

New  Bath  Scarlet,  Liv     Iowa. 

American        Scarlet, 

erpool,  Golden  Drop,  Brooklyn  Scarlet. 

Thompson's    Roseber- 

Devonshire,      North's  Bonte  St.  Julien. 

ry,  New  Roseberry. 

Seedling,  Milne's  Seed-  Beauty  of  England. 

Autumn  Scarlet. 

ling,   Imperial  Scar-  Barnes'  White. 

Adonis. 

let,  Austin's  Carolina  Barrat's  Empereur. 

Athlete. 

Pine,  Chili,  etc.             Bayne's  Early  Scarlet. 

Austin. 

Black  Prince,                        Bayne's  Incomparable. 

Alice  Maude. 

Wilmot's    Black   Impe-  Belle  d'Orleans. 

Amazon. 

rial.                                Buist's  Prize. 

Ambrosia,  Nicholnson. 

Black  Prince,  Cuthill's.       Belle  de  Yibert. 

Auguste  Eetemeyer. 

Bostock.                                 Belle  Artesienne. 

Albion  White. 

Rostock  Seedling,  Ros-  Bicolor,  De  Jonghe. 

American  Queen, 

took     Pine,     Rostock  Bell's  Excellent. 

Voorhis. 

Scarlet,      Wellington,  Bicton  Pine, 

Ariadne. 

Cone,  Byram,  Caledo-     Merveille  de  Flander*. 

Ajax,  Nicholnson's, 

nia,  Vernon's,  Monta-  Burr's  New  Pine. 

Admiral  Dundas. 

gue"s,    Prolific    Bath,  Burr's  Columbus. 

Atlestel. 

New    Bath,    Whitley's  Burr's  Late  Prolific. 

Adair. 

Pine,   Beanie's  .  Seed-  Burr's  Ohio  Mammoth. 

Asa  Gray, 

ling,   English    Globe,  Burr's  Profusion. 

Illinois. 

Red  Chili,  Devonshire,  Burr's  Scioto. 

Agriculturist. 

Devonshire  Chili,  Red  Burr's  Seedling. 

Annas  de  la  Hulle. 

Bath,  New  Scarlet.       Britannia. 

Annette. 

British  Queen,  Myatt's.       Bretonneau. 

Australia. 

Bullock's  Blood.                   Carmine  Scarlet, 

Abington  Blush. 

Black  Chili.                              Carmine  Roseberry. 

Belle  de  Machetaux. 

Baltimore  Scarlet.                Charlotte. 

Bishop's  Seedling. 

Berenice.                              Charlotte, 

Bishop's  Wick. 

Bishop's  Orange.                      Princess  CJiarlotte,  Wilt 

Black  Cone. 

Boston  Pine,                                 mot's  Early  Scarlet. 

Black  Hudson's  Bay, 

Bat'tlett.                             Cinnamon  Scarlet. 

Slack     Pine,     Hosiers 

Brighton  Pine.                      Clustered  Scarlet, 

Seedling. 

Boy  den's  Mammoth  (see        Clustered  Wood  Pine. 

Black  Eoseberry.             % 

Victoria).                          Crimson  Favorite. 

CATALOGUE   OF   STRAWBERRIES. 


Coxcomb  Scarlet.  Diadem.  Emily,  MyatVs. 

Copper-leaved  Roseberrj    Durfee's  Seedling.  Faulkner's  King. 

Goal,  Late  Scarlet,  Delices  d'Automne.  Fragraria  Lucida, 

Sir  George  Mackenzie"1*  Duke  of  Kent's  Scarlet,  California. 


Late  Scarlet. 

Chinese, 

Bed  Chili,  Norths  Scar- 
l»3t,  Bourbon  of  Amer- 
icans, Chapelizod,  Car- 
olina,  Large  White, 
Pineapple. 

Charles'  Favorite. 

Chilian, 
Pyramidal,  Newland. 

Chorlton's  Prolific. 

Climax  Scarlet. 

Coppock's  No.  1. 

Cornucopia. 

Crimson  Cone. 

Cutter's  Seedling, 
Bunce. 

Col.  Ellsworth. 

Crimson  Queen. 

Captain  Cook. 

Chester. 

Compte  de  Flanders. 

Comptesse  de  Marne. 

Compte  de  Paris. 

Cremont  Perpetual. 

Crimson  Globe. 

Crystal  Palace. 

Gushing. 

Carolina    Grandiflora, 
Superb. 

Chili  White. 

Chili  Orange. 

Chili  Bed. 

Conqueror,  Prince's. 

Cceur  Saint  Innocent. 

Cook's  Hybrid. 

Comptesse  de  Beaumont 

Cobb'a  Prolific. 

Crookshank. 

Covode's  Seedling. 

Chancellor 

De  Bath. 

Dlack's  Seedling, 
New  Aberdeen* 

Dudson  House  Scarlet, 

Deptford  White  or  Pine. 

Due  de  Malakoff. 


Globe    Scarlet,    Prolific  Fillmore. 

Scarlet,  Early  Prolific,  Filbert  Pine. 

Nova  Scotia   Scarlet,  Fillbasket. 

Cluster  do.,  Austrian  Felton's  Seedling. 

do.,     Oatland>s     do.,  Fortunatus. 

Duke  of  York's  do.       Florence. 
Downton,  Fragrant  Scarlet. 

Knight's  No.  7.  Formosa. 

Dutch,  Frogmore  Late  Pin<\ 

White  Pine,  Blush  Pine,  French  Cucumber. 

Large     Blush     Pine,  French  Musk. 

White  Bath,  Red  and  Garnstone  Scarlet. 

White    Bath,    Large  General  McClellan. 

White,    Chili,    White  General  Washington. 

Chili,     Large      Pale  Great  Eastern. 

Chili,       Flesh-colored  Grand  Mere  de  Bollwiller. 

Chili,     Cone,     Globe,  Globular  Hudson's  Bay. 

Conical.  Grange  Hudson's  Bay. 

Downer's  Prolific.  Grimstone  Scarlet. 

Due  de  Brabant.  Grove  End  Scarlet, 

Dundee.  Atkinson's  Scarlet 

Delices  du  Palais,  Nicaisse.Gibba?  Black  Seedling. 


Dr.  Karl  Koch. 

Glazed  Pine, 

Duke  of  Cambridge. 

Knott's     Pine,     Scarlet 

Duke  of  Cornwall. 

Pineapple,  Chinese  of 

Duchesse  de  Trevise. 

same,  Carolina  ditto 

Eclipse,  Reeve. 

Red  Chili  ditto. 

Early  Globe. 

Genesee. 

or  Early  Scarlet, 

Germantown, 

Montevideo. 

Hovey. 

Elton, 

Glen  Albin. 

Elton's  Seedling. 

Goliath,  Kitley's. 

Eliza, 

Georgia  Mammoth. 

Hyatt's,  Champion. 

General  Havelock. 

Eliza,  Rivers'. 

Georgian  Scarlet. 

Empress  Eugenie. 

Gelineau. 

t.     Early  May. 

Garibaldi,  Burgess. 

Excelsa. 

General  Scott,  Bur  gets. 

Eclipse. 

Globose  Scarlet. 

Excelsior,  Heffron. 

Garden  of  Eden. 

Estelle. 

General  Jacqueminot 

Emma. 

General  Lyons. 

English  Lady's  Finger. 

Hendries. 

Excellente. 

Heroine. 

Eberlein's  Seedling. 

Hein's  White. 

).      Eleanor,  Myatt's. 

Hein's  Scarlet 

Elizabeth. 

Honey. 

CATALOGUE    OF    STKAWBEKKIES. 


Hudson's  Bay,  Lewisham  Scarlet, 

York     River     Scarlet,     Scarlet  Cluster. 
American    do..    Late  Lynedock  Seedling. 
do.,  Hudson's  Pine  of  Large  Black  Seedling. 
Scotland,     Atkinson's  Large  Blush  Chili. 
Scarlet,  Velvet  Scarlet,  Longworth's  Prolific. 


Hopewood  Scarlet. 
Hovey, 

Germdntown. 
Hooker. 

Honneur  de  la  Belgique. 
Harlaem  Orange. 
Hooper's  Seedling. 
Huntsman's  Montevideo. 
Imperial  Crimson. 
Imperial  Scarlet. 
Iowa, 

Brooks'*  Prolific. 


Lawrencia. 
Le  Baron. 
Long  Stem. 
La  Constante. 
Lizzie  Eandolph. 
Lucy  Fitch. 

Little  Monitor,  Burgess. 
Lady  of  the  Lake. 
Lennig's  White. 
La  Chalonaise,  De  Jonghe. 
La  Delicieuse, 
Lorio. 


Ingram's  Prince  of  "Wales.  La  Grosse  Sucree. 

Iphigene.  La  Keine,  De  Jonghe. 

Imperatrice  Eugenie.  La  Sultane. 

Incomparable.  La  Perle. 

Jenny's  Seedling.  Leopold. 

Jessie  Keed,  Lorio. 

Golden  Seed.  Lucas. 

Josephine.  Lucie. 

Jenny  Lind.  La  Liegeoise. 

Jocunda.  Large  Virginian, 

Jennings'  Indiana.  Late  Virginian. 

Jeannette.  Late  Prolific. 

Jung  Bahadoor.  Lafayette. 

Jouna  or  Flauter.  Lord  Spencer. 

Kaminski.                    '  Mottier's  Seedling. 

King  Arthur.  Monstreuse  de  Eobin. 

Knight's  Large  Scarlet,  Magniflque. 

American  ditto,  Hairy  Mary. 

Leaved    ditto,  Large  Melon. 

Scarlet.  Metheven  Scarlet, 
Knight's  Scarlet-fleshed, 

Knight's  No.  16.    . 
Keen's  Imperial, 

Black  Isleworth   Necta- 
rine, etc. 
Keen's  Seedling, 

Keen's    N0w    Seedling, 

Murphy's  Child. 
Knevett's  New  Pine. 
Keen's  Pistillate. 


Kitley's  Superba. 
Kentucky. 
Ladies'  Pine. 


Metheven  Castle,  South- 
ampton Scarlet. 
Morrisania  Scarlet, 

Hudson's. 
Myatt's  Pine. 
Mulberry, 

Mahone,  King,  Chero- 
kee, Surinam  of  Scot- 
land. 

Magnum  Bonum. 
Macey's  Seedling. 
Marylandica. 
McAvoy's  Extra  Eed. 


McAvoy's  Snpetior. 

McAvoy's  No.  1. 

Merveille.     . 

Monroe  Scarlet. 

Moyamensing.       .  -  ,  ' 

May  Queen. 

Marguerite. 

Monitor. 

Malvina. 

Melanie. 

Minerva. 

Madam  Louesse. 

Marquise   de  Latour   M»- 
bourg  (see  Vi&omptesse) 

Mrs.  D.  Neilson. 

Madame  E.  Vilmorin 

Marie  Amelie. 

Mount  Vesuvius. 

Monophylla  (one-leaved) 

Nairn's  Scarlet. 

Narrow-leaved  Scarlet, 
Knight's  No.  14. 

Nicholnson's  Superb. 

Nathalie. 

Napoleon  III. 

Necked  Pine. 

Nimrod. 

Ne  Plus  Ultra. 

Nero. 

Newton  Seedling. 

Naimette,  Lorio. 

Newark  Prolific, 
Green  Prolific 

Oblong  Scarlet, 
Long  Fruited  do.,  Pad- 
ley's  do. 

Old  Scarlet. 

Early  Scarlet,  Original, 
ditto,  Virginian,  Old 
Bath,  Orange  or  Irish, 
Ecarlete  de  Virginie, 

Orange, 

Hudson's  Bay,  Hamil* 
ton's,  Bishop's  Pine, 
Orange  Pine. 

Old  Black, 

Black  Caiterbury,Black 
Pine,  Turkey  Pine, 
Black  Beacon.  Mul- 
berry. 

Oscar. 


CATALOGUE   OF    STKAWBEEKIES. 


Old  Pine  or  Carolina,  Eoseberry,  Scott's  Seedling, 

Borsdorf,    Grandiflora,     Hose,     Scotch,     Sccwlet,     Lady  Finger. 


Aberdeen,        Prolific  Scarlet  Magnate. 
Pine,  Brickley.  Scarlet  Cone. 

Bound  Fruit  d  Scarlet, 

Knight's  No.  18. 
Eed  Cone. 
Bound  White  Carolina, 


Scarlet  Melting. 
Scarlet  Prolific. 
Superlative. 
Sirius. 


White  Pine,  White  Chili.  Suprema. 


(See  Dutch.) 
Eandolph  Pine. 
Bead's  No.  1. 
Bead's  Black  Pine. 


etc. 

Ohio  Mammoth. 
Omer  Pacha. 
Orange  Prolific. 
Ophelia. 
Orb. 

Ornament  des  Tables. 
Pine  Boseberry. 
Pitmasten  Black  Scarlet, 

Early  Pitmasten. 
Pitmasten's  Black, 

Late  Pitmasten's  Black.  Bival  Hudson. 
Pine  Chili.  Eosaline. 

Prince  Albert.  Eeine  Hortense. 

Paulinus.  Bichardson's  Cambridge. 

Peabody.  Ehode  Island. 

Pennsylvania.  Boss  Phoenix  (see  Keen's).  Smythe's  Seedling. 

Primate.  Buby,  Nicholnson's.  Sir  Adair. 

Prince's  Globose.  Eoyal  Victoria.  Sterling  Castle  Pine. 

Princess    Frederick   Wil-  Eival  Queen. 

liam.  Eussell's  Prolific. 

Prince  Imperial.  Bobinson's  Seedling. 

Premices  de  Bagnolet         Bidgewood. 
Princess   Eoyale,    Polvil-  Bifleman. 

Ian. 

Princess  Boyal. 
Perfumed  Cone. 
Priscilla. 

Prince's  Excelsior, 
Prince  Arthur. 
Patrick's  Seedling. 
Prince  Alfred. 
Prolific,  Myatt's. 


Supreme  Staminate. 
Schneicke's  Pistillate. 
Stewart. 
Sappho. 
Seraphine. 
Scarlet  Prize. 
Scarlet  Nonpareil. 
Scarlet  Eock. 
Sir  Harry. 


Scarlet  Climax. 
Sir  Charles  Napier. 
Surprise,  Myatt-'s. 
Sir  Walter  Scott. 
Schiller. 

Souvenir  de  Nantes. 
St.  Lambert. 
Sanspareil. 
Scarlet  Cluster. 
Scotch  Eunner. 
Taylor's  New  Emperor. 
Turner's  Pine. 
True  Chili. 


Prince  of  Wales,  Cuffiill's.  Slough  Scarlet, 
Prince  of  Orleans.  Brown's  Scarlet. 

Prolific  Pine,  Solid  Scarlet, 

Brickley  Scarlet.  Solid-fleshed. 

Pineapple.  Southborough, 
Prince  of  Wales,  Ingrain's.    Marshall's  Seedling. 

Prince  of  Wales,  Stewart  Sweet  Cone, 


and  Neilson. 
Profuse  Scarlet. 
Queen  Victoria. 
Quinquefolia. 
Queen  of  America, 

Voorhis. 
Quatre  Saisons. 
Queen's  Seedling. 
Bed  Finger. 


Eobert  Trail. 

Eushtoniensis. 

Bichardson's  Early. 

Bichardson's  Late. 

Eoyal  Pine. 

Eoyal  Scarlet. 

Befulgent 

Scone  Scarlet 

Sir  Joseph  Banks'  Scarlet.  Trevirana. 

Triumph. 

Triumphant  Scarlet 

Triumvirate. 

Triomphe  de  Gand. 

Taylor's  Seedling. 

Tingley's  Scarlet 

Tatnall's  Seedling. 

Union  (see  Victoria). 

Unique  Scarlet. 


Knight's  No.  8. 
Surinam, 
Button's    Large,    Old- 

aker's  Pine,  etc. 
Swainstone's  Seedling, 
Monstrous    Snainstone, 

etc. 

Sciota. 
Scarlet  Chili. 


Vernon's  Scarlet 

White's  Scarlet. 
Variegated  Pine, 

Striped  Leaved  Scarlit 
Valencia. 

Victoria,  Trotiope't. 
Victorine. 


CATALOGUE    OF    STRAWBERRIES. 


Vieomptesse  Hericart  de   "Wonderful.  Waverly. 

Tbeury,  Wilmot's  Scarlet,  "Warren. 

Duchesse,  de  Trevise.         WilmoVs   Late    Scarlet,  "Welcome. 
\  ersailles  (see  Monophyl-         WilmofsSeedling^Wil-  Ward's  Favorite. 


Victory, 

Scarlit  Victory. 
Wilmot's  Late  Scarlet. 
Wortbere. 
Wilmot's  Superb. 


mot's  Imperial. 
"Wizard  of  the  North. 
"Walker. 

"Wilson's  Albany. 
Wyoming. 
Willow. 
Wardlaw. 


Wellington. 

White  Brittany  Pine. 

Walworth. 

Washington  (see  Iowa). 

Willey. 

Yellowchild. 


ALPINE,  HAUTBOIS,  AND  WOOD 
STRAWBERRIES. 


Autamnal  Galande. 

American  Wood  Strawberry. 

Alpine  Monthly  (red}. 

Alpine  Monthly  (white). 

Alpine  Monthly,  without  runners  (red). 

Alpine  Monthly  do.,  do.  (white). 

Besancon. 

Belle  Bordelaise. 

Black  Hautbois. 

Bijou  des  Fraises  (Haufbois). 

Brown  Hautbois. 

Breslinge  d'Angleterre. 

Common  Hautbois  (original  Hautbois). 

Caucasian. 

Double  Flowering. 

De  Bargemont. 

De  Montreuil  (white). 

De  Montreuil  (red,  or  Fressanf). 

Globe  Hautbois  (Antwerp  Hautbois). 

Gloede's  White  Alpine. 

Gloede's  Eed  Alpine. 

Glorie  de  St.  Dennis. 

Glorie  du  Nord. 

Glorie  de  Nancy. 


Gilbert's  Large  Brown. 

Green  Alpine  (Pineapple). 

Hative  de  Fontenay. 

Heterophylla  (various  leaved). 

Indica  or  Yellow  Flowering. 

La  Belle  Bordelaise  (Hautbois). 

La  Meudonaise  (Alpine). 

Large  Flat  Hautbois. 

Long  Fruited  Murcatelle. 

Monstrous  Hautbois. 

Myatt's  Hautbois. 

Plymouth  or  Muricata. 

Prolific  Hautbois. 

Poitou  Alpine  Monthly. 

Eeine  Quatre  Saisons. 

Eed  Wood  (Des  Bois). 

Kivers'  Hautbois. 

Stoddard's  Alpine. 

Vineuse    de    Champagne    (Frasiei's 

Cliampagne. 

Versailles  Quatre  Saisons. 
White  Wood  (Den  Bois  a  Fruit  Blanc). 
"Williams'  Green  Alpine. 


THE 


ANDKEW  8.  FULLEE, 


NEW      AND      ENLARGED      EDITION. 


THE    STANDARD    WORK 

ON    THE    CULTIVATION     OF    THE    HARDY    GRAPE, 

AS    IT   NOT    ONLY    DISCUSSES   PRINCIPLES, 

BUT 

ILLUSTRATES    PRACTICE. 

Every   thins:    is   made   perfectly   plain,  and.   its   teach- 
ings   may    be    followed    npon. 

ONE     VINE     OB    A    VINEYARD 


The  following  are  some  of  the  topics  tfiat  are  treated: 

GROWING  NEW  VARIETIES  FROM  SEED. 

PROPAGATION  BY  SINGLE  BUDS  OR  EYES. 

PROPAGATING  HOUSES  AND  THEIR  MANAGEMENT  FULLY  DKS^RTBED. 

How  TO  GROW. 

CUTTINGS  IN  OPEN  AIR,  AND  HOW  TO  MAKE  LAYIRS. 

GRAFTING  THE  GRAPE — A  SIMPLE  AND  SUCCESSFUL  METHOD. 

HYBRIDIZING  AND  CROSSING — MOPE  OF  OPERATION. 

SOIL  AND  JITUATION — PLANTING  AND  CULTIVATION. 

PRUNING,  TRAINING,  AND  TRELLISES — ALL  THE  SYSTEMS  EXPLAINED. 

GARDEN  CULTURE— How  TO  GROW  VINES  IN  A  DOOR-YARD. 

INSECTS,  MILDEW,  SUN-SCALD,  AND  OTHER  TROUBLES. 

DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  VALUABLE  AND  THE  DISCARDED  VARIETIES. 


Sent  post-paid.     Price  $1.50. 


Orange    Judd    <fe    Co..    24r5    Broad  w  ay. 


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